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Posted:April 23, 2007

Bilbergia Nutans (Queens Tears) another hardy Bromeliad

Bilbergia Nutans Among my collection of exotics, I have three Bromeliads which have proved to be very rewarding plants to grow.
Not only do they look good, but they don’t need cosseting or fussing over and despite my initial reservations, they’ve proved to be very hardy indeed.
I’ve already written a blog about one of them, Puya Alpestris, so here’s another one Bilbergia Nutans or Queens Tears.

B.Nutans is an epiphytic Bromeliad originally from South America.
An evergreen, it grows as a neat clump made up of several vaguely urn shaped rosettes.
The rosettes collect water and organic matter which in turn provides the plant with moisture and nutrition.
The leaves on my plant, which is growing in a pot, are 12 to 18 inches long, very slender and they're armed with tiny, very sharp teeth along the leaf edges.

New rosettes grow each year and usually flower anytime between very late May and mid June the following year.
The flowers, growing from the centre of the urn, are covered by a pink sheath or bract.
The bracts open and the flowers emerge, these have green petals edged with blue.
It's a strange colour combination, some might say weird but in their own way rather lovely looking.

Cultivation

I really don't do a lot by way of cultivation to B.Nutans, this is because it grows very well without any interference from me.
(Remember, no cosseting or fussing.)
In fact I'm afraid I might do more harm than good if I mess about with it.
So, apart from the very occasional watering with a weak mixture of Phostrogen fertilizer and during prolonged dry weather a sprinkling of rainwater from the watering can, I leave it alone.
(Use rain water for preference, or tap water that's been boiled and allowed to cool.)

For repotting, I used a free draining mix of coir, Perlite, charcoal pieces and small bark chips to which I added a dash of soilless compost.
You can also use soil based composts like John Innes but again it must be very well drained.

I normally leave the pot in an open, very lightly shaded spot, on occasions I do give it some late afternoon sun which doesn't do any harm but avoid placing it in strong sunlight.
B.Nutans, spends the Winter under an open sided cloche that I put up every year to give some protection from excess rain but not frost.
So far, B.Nutans proved to be hardy down to -10c.

Propagation

Propagation is by division.
Mature offsets are carefully cut off after growth has started in the spring,the cuts should be dusted with fungicide.
The offsets are then planted in a loose well drained compost.
Bark chips, coir, Perlite together with charcoal pieces are all good.
Place the offsets in a warm spot, roots should form in a few weeks.
A light misting with rainwater is beneficial but try to avoid getting the compost too wet. ( Secretly, I put mine out if its showery, it works wonders.) Posted by: Mike.

Note: B.Nutans is one of the best exotics I've bought, I'd recommend it to anyone.
It's easy to grow, not troubled by pests and it also makes a pretty good housplant.