With their spidery looking flowers and a perfume which can vary from non existent to positively heady, Hedychiums are an ideal choice for a hot tropical looking border.
My own small collection, which are all planted out in the garden consists of H.Chrysoleucum, H.Coccineum “Tara”, H.Densiflorum “Assam Orange”, H.Flavescens, H.Forrestii and H.Spicatum.
Of these, H.c. “Tara”, H.d. “Assam Orange” and H.Flavescens have all done well and flower regularly.
H.Chrysoleucum, H.Forrestii and H.Spicatum also grow well but have never flowered for me.
This reluctance of some species to flower, is I believe down to two factors.
First, Hedychiums need a longer growing season than our climate affords them.
(In warmer areas of the country where the growing season is longer, I'd expect most if not all of the species I grow to flower successfully.)
Second, in "cold" gardens like mine, growth tends to be very slow, only speeding up when the temperature rises above 68f.
It's usually late May early June before any significant growth can be seen, then everything happens in a rush. (Unless we have a cold snap of course, then everything grinds to a halt.)
The easiest way to extend the growing season, is to grow the plants in pot's and start them off in a warm, well lit room in the house.
When all danger of frost has gone, they can be pot planted in the garden.
If the plants still do not flower, lift the pots and bring them back into warmth and good light and continue to grow them on.
This should be done before the first frosts.
Before I start the next section, there's something I'd like to point out.
Many Hedychiums are very vigorous growers and when well grown, the rhizomes, which usually grow laterally will spread very rapidly.
When planted out in a small area, this can pose problems when the time comes to lift them.
Trying to untangle the rhizomes from the roots of adjacent plants is no joke and can cause a lot of damage if not done carefully so be warned.
Growing Hedychiums in the garden couldn't be easier.
Sun to light shade suits them best, soil should be well cultivated, well drained and enriched with plenty of well rotted organic matter.
Hedychiums are gross feeders and they love plenty of moisture when in growth, so keep them well fed and watered.
I should point out, that the rhizomes grow very close to the soil surface, almost sitting on top of it at times, so there's no need to plant them too deep a couple of inches is enough.
When it comes to overwintering Hedychiums in the ground, you have two choices, either leave them in the ground and mulch them or lift and store them.
Whichever way you choose, allow the top growth to die down and then remove it.
If you're leaving them in the ground, the rhizomes should be covered with a thick mulch of organic material.
I use well rotted horse manure but bark chips, straw, even a thick layer of old newspapers will help keep the winter at bay.
To keep excess water out the mulch can be covered with a cloche or with an old bin bag, which has been pegged down to stop it blowing away.
The second way, is to lift the rhizomes, remove the soil and any dead roots and store them in a cool frost free area.
In areas where they get deep frosts which really penetrate the soil, this second method is probably the only way to bring them through the Winter successfully.
Hedychiums, also make good pot plants, with the scented ones being excellent.
H.Gardnerianum, will fill a sunny conservatory with the most glorious perfume.
A rich, well drained compost is best, with plenty of water and fertilizer when growing well.
Repotting or replacing the top layer of compost every year is beneficial but try to keep root disturbance to a minimum.
Plants should be kept on the dry side when dormant or when growth is slow. Overwatering, can lead to root and rhizome rots and the loss of the plant so please be carefull, don't do my trick "It looks a little dry, so I'll give it a drop more." it kills them.
The quickest way to propagate Hedychiums is by division.
Lift the rhizomes in Spring and clean off the old soil.
Cut away and discard any areas that are rotting and dust the cuts with fungicide.
Try to get two or three shoots on each division and make clean cuts with a sharp knife or secateurs, dust cuts with fungicide.
All you do then, is pot them up and put them in a warm well lit area.
Keep them on the dry side until new growth starts and then water very modestly until in full growth.
The seed should first be given a hot/warm water soak.
Place the seed in a container, then boil some water.
Once boiled, remove the water from the heat and allow to cool for a few minutes.
Pour the water over the seeds and place the container in a warm airing cupboard or somewhere similar.
After 24hrs, plant the seed in pots in a well drained compost.
Germination takes about 4/6 weeks depending on how warm you can keep them.
I plant mine in late Spring early Summer and I put the pots in a small unheated plastic propagator.
Once the seeds have germinated, water modestly, give weak solutions of fertilizer and if your growing them indoors look out for Red Spider Mite they love them.
Try to keep the young plants growing for as long as possible but if they show signs of going dormant then stop watering immediately and keep them in a cool area until next season. Posted by: Mike.
Note: Grown outdoors, I've had little trouble with pests or diseases, although the odd slug, will have a nibble at the new shoots occasionaly.
Growing them indoors, is at least for me a constant battle against Red Spider Mite.
I normally mist the leaves, which provides a temporary respite but I have in the past used Provado which seems to work o.k.
That's it, the lot. Good Growing!
Like T.Fortunei, C.Humilis has been grown in this country for many years.
Despite being popular, it never seems to have caught the imagination of palm growers in the same way that T.Fortunei has.
I’ve a sneaky feeling, this is due to the fact that although C,Humilis is a very variable palm, it’s normally seen in its multi trunked clumping form.
Sadly, with the possible exception of Sabal Minor and Rhapidophyllum Hystrix, which are popular because of their hardiness, clump forming palms just don’t seem to cut the mustard with palm fans.
This I think is a great pity because planted in a suitable position and given some room to develop; C.Humilis is a magnificent garden palm.
In recent years, C.Humilis has been joined by a little brother, which despite being another clumping palm is growing in popularity.
C.h. v cerifera is its name and as soon as you see one, the reason for its growing number of admirers becomes clear. Blue leaves!
If there’s one thing that a palm enthusiast likes as much as, if not more than, a single trunk palm, it's a palm with blue leaves.
Even more recently, another form of C.Humilis has been found, this time called C.h.v volcano.
Although I don't grow this palm, those that I've seen for sale have all been of the multi trunked clumping type.
The leaves on C.h. v volcano, seem to be smaller, stiffer and more upright than those of the "normal" C.Humilis.
This, gives the palm a much "tighter" effect, in some I've seen, almost a ball shape.
All these palms are native to the Mediterranean region including North Africa.
C.Humilis has the widest distribution, being common throughout the Western Mediterranean.
C.h. v cerifera, comes from high up in the Atlas Mountains where it's subjected to snow and frost, as is C.humilis on occasions.
For my way of planting out palms, see my blog: palms!!! planting out your treasures.
All Chamaerops make good pot/tub plants but for me, the slower growth of C.h.cerifera makes it the best of the lot.
C.humilis is o.k. for a few years but as it grows ever larger, moving and especially repotting it can be a bit of a problem.
Also, don't forget that these palms grow out, as much as up and C.humilis can become very top heavy.
For potting, I use a well drained mix of J.I.no 3, well rotted manure, charcoal pieces and dust, gravel/perlite and long life fertilizer granules.
Err on the side of fast drainage, remember, stagnant water hanging about the roots provides ideal conditions for root rots.
Siting: Although I've read that Chamaerops do well grown in shade, mine are planted in full Sun.
The reason for this, is that when I've seen them growing in the wild, they've always been growing in open, sunny situations and I see no reason to plant mine differently.
Problems: I've never had any trouble with insect pests, not even Red Spider Mite or from my resident population of Vine Weevils.
I've found that Chamaerops generaly are pretty weatherproof palms.
Mine have been battered by winds, snowed on and frozen and they've come through it all admirably.
There is one problem though, freezing north and easterly winds.
These can burn the tips of the leaves causing them to turn brown and they can also encourage fungal growth, which usually take the form of yellow edged rusty brown spots.
You can protect your palm somewhat, by planting it in a sheltered situation, by covering it with fleece (tricky when larger) or by spraying with a fungicide.
Personaly, I don't bother, I'm happy with my palms, they're growing well and they look good to me.
Fertilizing: Although many plants are happy with a balanced fertilizer, palms have special requirements.
They tend to suffer from a shortage of magnesium and certain trace elements.
If your new to palm growing, I'd suggest that you read the article here: Fertilizing palms by N.Kembrey. and use a "palm special" fertilizer.
Another company which sells suitable fertilizer can be found here: http://www.thepalmcentre.co.uk/
Here's a good one: Germinating and growing palms from seed. by N.Kembery.
Posted by: Mike.