<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004</id><updated>2011-12-15T04:08:15.991+01:00</updated><title type='text'>MIKES EXOTICS and HARDY PLANTS</title><subtitle type='html'></subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default?max-results=100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>40</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>100</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-582339549781052916</id><published>2008-05-04T13:27:00.056+01:00</published><updated>2008-11-17T11:50:59.370+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Shrubs for the exotic garden.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;This blog features shrubs which I think are a useful addition to anyone’s garden and will help give it an exotic look.&lt;br /&gt;All are easy to grow and shouldn’t pose any problems.&lt;br /&gt;An acid to neutral soil suits most of them best and they can also be grown in pots, tubs and raised beds.&lt;br /&gt;To get the ball rolling, I’ll start with one which is guaranteed to give your garden an instant exotic look.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Fatsia Japonica&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvozS_I2piI/AAAAAAAAAMY/b6wdVmDhQqA/s1600-h/hand+plant.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5114456728111851042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Fatsia Japonica" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvozS_I2piI/AAAAAAAAAMY/b6wdVmDhQqA/s200/hand+plant.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Introduced into the U.K. in 1838, F.Japonica seems to have been one of those “instant successes” rapidly gaining favour as a house/conservatory plant.&lt;br /&gt;Eventually, it found its way out into the open garden where it’s usually grown today.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bright green palmate shaped leaves have a distinct waxy appearance and they're reputed to be the largest of any hardy shrub.&lt;br /&gt;Even as a small plant, F.Japonica has a tropical look and with its spreading habit, this just gets better and better as the plant grows to maturity.&lt;br /&gt;Fortunately, F.Japonica isn't one of those "prima donna" type plants, being suitable for growing in sun or shade.&lt;br /&gt;It isn't fussy about soil type either as long as it's well drained and preferably enriched with some well rotted manure.&lt;br /&gt;A good mulch is definitely benificial and a feed or two with a good general purpose fertilizer will help keep your plant in tip top condition.&lt;br /&gt;Normally it isn't troubled by pests or diseases, but for some reason, some people seem to dislike the way it sheds its lower leaves.&lt;br /&gt;This is probably because it leaves bare stems, but it's easy enough to plant something else in front of it to hide them.&lt;br /&gt;I think that F.Japonica is a very underated plant and for the instant tropical look it can't be beaten, so if you haven't got one, dash out and buy one. Now!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Camellias&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/SB7m5xvBZ_I/AAAAAAAAAPg/_hxDmXftruk/s1600-h/camellia.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196844900309624818" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="C.williamsii Gwavas" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/SB7m5xvBZ_I/AAAAAAAAAPg/_hxDmXftruk/s200/camellia.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Although I only grow a couple of Camellias, if I had the room I'd certainly grow more of them, they really are magnificent shrubs.&lt;br /&gt;There are some 200+ species native to East and South East Asia from the Himalaya to Japan.&lt;br /&gt;Camellias have always been popular with hybridisers both amateur and professional and today there are literally thousands of named and unnamed cultivars.&lt;br /&gt;If you just want a plant or two, the most easily available are cultivars of C.Japonica and C.Williamsii which itself is a hybrid between C.Japonica and C.Saluenensis.&lt;br /&gt;There's no doubt that over the years Camellias have had a bad press.&lt;br /&gt;This is due to their habit of dropping buds and the damage that can be caused by strong spring sunshine falling on open flowers that have been frosted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I grew my plants in pots in shade at the back of the house, but results here were poor with few flowers.&lt;br /&gt;So four years ago I moved them and they now live in a south facing raised bed with protection from early morning sun provided by a Laurel hedge.&lt;br /&gt;They get full sun for roughly 3 or 4 hours in the afternoon and they now flower like mad.&lt;br /&gt;Because these beds dry out quickly I have to keep them well watered, but this is a small price to pay for the pleasure they bring.&lt;br /&gt;Regular feeding with a fertilizer suitable for acid loving plants keeps them happy and although I still haven't quite cracked the bud dropping problem (I still lose three or four but you can't have everything) I'm persevering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Pieris&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/SB7nOxvBaAI/AAAAAAAAAPo/riEvfbbeYkA/s1600-h/pieris3.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196845261086877698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="P.j.Moutain Fire (top) &amp;amp;  P.j. Little Heath (foreground)" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/SB7nOxvBaAI/AAAAAAAAAPo/riEvfbbeYkA/s200/pieris3.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;There are seven species of Pieris native to mountainous areas of eastern and southern Asia, eastern N.America and Cuba.&lt;br /&gt;They are excellent shrubs for bringing some much needed colour to the late spring and early summer border.&lt;br /&gt;The small urn shaped flowers, which depending on the species can be white or pink are nice enough, but it’s the colour of the new leaf growth that really gets these shrubs noticed.&lt;br /&gt;Again depending on the variety, the new leaves can be red, bronze or pink.&lt;br /&gt;In the case of what is probably the most popular variety P.”Forest Flame” (P.formosa ”Wakeham” x P.japonica) the new growth is red turning to pink then creamy white before finally turning green.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I grow two varieties, P.j.”Mountain Fire” and P.j.”Little Heath” and apart from a bit of shoot dieback when I first planted them out, they have proved to be pretty much problem free plants.&lt;br /&gt;A position in light shade suits them best, but they will stand some sun provided they’re not allowed to dry out.&lt;br /&gt;A moist free draining acid to neutral soil is fine and like most shrubs, they benefit from a mulch in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Aristolochia Macrophylla&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/SEEbGIsiSAI/AAAAAAAAAQA/1QMVozJMJNo/s1600-h/aristolochia1.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5206472436444448770" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Aristolochia Macrophylla" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/SEEbGIsiSAI/AAAAAAAAAQA/1QMVozJMJNo/s200/aristolochia1.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Aristolochia are a genus of plants containing evergreen and deciduous vines and herbaceous perennials&lt;br /&gt;They're found in most parts of the world from temperate to tropical and as usual, the more flamboyant of them come from the warmer regions.&lt;br /&gt;Here in the U.K. they're probably best known as plants growing in the tropical house of your nearest botanical garden where the unusual shape of the flower gives us all something to ooh and aah about and gives rise to the nicknames of "Dutchman's Pipe" and "Birthwort".&lt;br /&gt;The reason for the first name is pretty obvious when you look at the flower, but the second name is because it's supposed to resemble a birth canal.&lt;br /&gt;Certain Aristolochia species have a long history of use by Man for medicinal purposes.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, it seems that some of the concoctions can have nasty side effects one of which is death. &lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I grow Aristolochia Macrophylla which is a hardy deciduous vine from eastern N.America where it's a popular plant for growing up walls, fences and old tree stumps etc.&lt;br /&gt;A glance at the photo, shows that the flowers are pretty insignificant looking things, but this is more than compensated for by the leaves.&lt;br /&gt;On a well grown plant, these heart shaped lustrous beauties can be up to 12 inches long and almost as wide.&lt;br /&gt;As they grow they overlap each other forming a dense screen that's almost impossible to see through. (A great place for hiding the family heirlooms, at least for the summer.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In nature, A.macrophylla is found in damp woodlands and alongside streams and this gives us a clue as to how it should be grown.&lt;br /&gt;A well prepared soil enriched with plenty of well rotted organic matter is ideal and if combined with plenty of water and fertilizer during the growing period, the result will be a superb plant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-582339549781052916?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/582339549781052916/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=582339549781052916' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/582339549781052916'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/582339549781052916'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2008/05/shrubs-for-exotic-garden.html' title='Shrubs for the exotic garden.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvozS_I2piI/AAAAAAAAAMY/b6wdVmDhQqA/s72-c/hand+plant.jpg.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-3673113906989282165</id><published>2008-04-15T10:55:00.101+01:00</published><updated>2008-08-16T12:37:57.407+01:00</updated><title type='text'>The USDA zone system explained.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;If you’re new to growing exotics and you’re looking through catalogues or browsing the web searching for prospective purchases, then you’ve probably noticed this "usda zone 8" included somewhere in the plant description.&lt;br /&gt;This is the United States Department of Agriculture zone system and its use as an indicator of a plants temperature tolerance has become virtually universal amongst enthusiasts and specialist nurseries alike here in the U.K.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note: The zones range from 1 which is the coldest to 11 the warmest.&lt;br /&gt;The bulk of the U.K. mainland is zone 8, parts of the West and South West are zone 9 while a small area of central Northern England and the central Scottish Highlands are zone 7. (Central London is possibly zone 9 also.)&lt;/i&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although the zone system is a useful tool, it should be used with caution.&lt;br /&gt;It's easy to make the mistake of thinking that because a plant has a rating of say zone 6 then it will be hardy here in the U.K.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, this is not the case because as you will see, there are other factors to be considered as well as frost hardiness.&lt;br /&gt;My thanks go to Mr.Ramon Jordan, Research Plant Pathologist at the U.S.National Arboretum for allowing me to publish this explanation of the zone system.&lt;/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is based only on Temperature. It illustrates Zones based on "Average annual minimum temperature data". It does NOT take into consideration other environmental factors, such as those that you mention, including for example: snow, frost, day-length, days at a given temperature, rainfall, and altitude. It only shows "what is the average coldest temperature for a region". Plants listed with each region have been shown to be "hardy" at those average minimum temperatures. Having said that, every plant has a certain ability to adapt to a range of environments. Gardeners such as yourself have learned through experience where the great variety of landscape plants can (or can not) be grown. I hope this has been helpful.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reading the above passage, it’s clear to see that there’s far more to buying and growing exotics than just checking a plants zone rating to see if it’s hardy.&lt;br /&gt;In the days when I used to log on to the various online forums, it was clear from the content of many of the posts that people new to growing exotics had bought plants simply on the strength of their zone rating.&lt;br /&gt;As many of them had come to realize, this is a big mistake and can prove to be a very expensive one into the bargain.&lt;br /&gt;Always do some research into your plants needs, because in the end it will pay dividends.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;  Posted by Mike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-3673113906989282165?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/3673113906989282165/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=3673113906989282165' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/3673113906989282165'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/3673113906989282165'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2008/04/usda-zone-system-explained.html' title='The USDA zone system explained.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-6181402360088278878</id><published>2007-10-23T10:58:00.024+01:00</published><updated>2009-08-15T09:32:34.467+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Yuccas! Supreme Architectural Plants.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMNKgyCSMI/AAAAAAAAAN8/Uo8ZQLrb1zA/s1600-h/yucca+baccarta.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125955275127408834" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Yucca Baccata" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMNKgyCSMI/AAAAAAAAAN8/Uo8ZQLrb1zA/s200/yucca+baccarta.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Although I’ve been a gardener for many years, it’s only since growing exotics became fashionable again that I’ve heard the word “Architectural” used to describe plants. (I put this down to having lived a sheltered life.)&lt;br /&gt;Quite what the art and science of building has to do with plants is a bit above a mere mortal like me so I’ll leave it to those on a higher plain to figure it out.&lt;br /&gt;For the benefit of those who take this kind of stuff to heart though, let me introduce you to some plants which according to all I’ve read about them are the very epitome of “Architectural”. The Yuccas!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Native to the Americas and the Caribbean, it’s the hardier species from North America which are of interest to most enthusiasts including me.&lt;br /&gt;Depending on which book you read or website you access there are between 40 and 50 Yucca species and sub species native to the U.S.A. and Mexico.&lt;br /&gt;Y.Glauca is one of the hardiest and it can be found growing as far north as Canada and from there south through the Great Plains into Texas.&lt;br /&gt;It provides us with a useful demarcation line between the hardy and winter wet tolerant species to the east and south east and the hardy but less tolerant of winter wet species to the west and south west. (This conclusion is based on my experience.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMMPAyCSKI/AAAAAAAAANs/a57Ce6ldEgA/s1600-h/yucca+gloriosa.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125954252925192354" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Yucca Gloriosa" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMMPAyCSKI/AAAAAAAAANs/a57Ce6ldEgA/s200/yucca+gloriosa.bmp" border="0" /&gt; &lt;p&gt;&lt;/a&gt;At the present moment I have a small collection of 12 species, the majority of which I’ve grown from seed.&lt;br /&gt;Here’s a breakdown of the plants I’m growing now starting with the hardier types from the east/south east.&lt;br /&gt;All of these are growing outdoors without any protection.&lt;br /&gt;Y.Glauca, Y.Filamentosa “Gold Sword”, Y.Gloriosa, (and Y.Flaccida) are fully hardy and should come through the winter unscathed in most parts of the U.K.&lt;br /&gt;Y.Aloifolia, Y.Gloriosa “Variagata”, these are also hardy but in my garden they’ve suffered some minor leaf damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Y.Gloriosa itself is something of an enigma.&lt;br /&gt;I've seen it described as a zone 7 plant on some websites and a zone 9 on others.&lt;br /&gt;Whatever its zone is, my Y.Gloriosa pictured right, which I’ve grown from an offset has turned out to be one of the hardiest plants I’ve grown suffering no winter damage at all.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about the Y.Gloriosa I’ve grown from seed.&lt;br /&gt;Now small plants, they have suffered some damage to the leaves.&lt;br /&gt;Compared to some of the other's I’m growing though, this has been minor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMMyAyCSLI/AAAAAAAAAN0/0L2IekdzhTY/s1600-h/yucca+brevifolia.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125954854220613810" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Yucca Brevifolia" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMMyAyCSLI/AAAAAAAAAN0/0L2IekdzhTY/s200/yucca+brevifolia.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The plants in this section are those I’ve grown from seed.&lt;br /&gt;All are native to the west and south west of the U.S.A. and Mexico.&lt;br /&gt;Many find their home in one or more of the 4 great deserts that are found in this part of N.America, The Mohave, The Chihuahuan, The Sonora and The Great Basin Desert.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;From these dry semi-arid areas of N.America, come most if not all of the more spectacular members of the Yucca clan.&lt;br /&gt;Y.Brevifolia "The Joshua Tree" largest of all the Yuccas and a magnificent plant which really does grow to tree like proportions.&lt;br /&gt;Native to the Mohave Desert, it has a National Park named in its honour.&lt;br /&gt;Y.Whipplei from California (Baja) and Mexico is best known for its giant stem packed with flowers hence the popular name "Our Lords Candle".&lt;br /&gt;Finally, from the Great Basin Desert comes the smallest of the Yuccas, Y.Nana.&lt;br /&gt;Found in only one area of Southern Utah, Y.Nana was only discovered in 1985.&lt;br /&gt;Described and named in 1998 it has been given species status but this in itself, has caused some disagreement among experts over its validity.&lt;br /&gt;In between these examples, there are a host of other equally magnificent plants deserving of a place in anyones garden.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The names of the plants I'm growing now are listed below together with their U.S.D.A. zone rating.&lt;br /&gt;Y.Baccata (5), Y.Brevifolia (7), Y.Carnerosana (8), Y.Elata (7), Y.Rigida (8), Y.Rostrata (8), Y.Torreyi (8).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If like me you're overwintering small plants outdoors, then I'd advise you to provide them with some form of cover to keep the worst of the elements at bay.&lt;br /&gt;Failure to do so will almost certainly result in leaf damage and in severe cases, the loss of plants usually through the roots rotting.&lt;br /&gt;This is due to the fact that these Yuccas come from areas where they have cold dry winters where as here in the U.K we have cold wet winters.&lt;br /&gt;(How winter wet affects the large or specimen sized plants that are popular nowadays I don't know for the simple reason that I've never bought one.)&lt;br /&gt;If you bring you're plants indoors to overwinter them, then beware of Red Spider Mite as this little beast can do considerable damage to young plants.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's no great secret to growing Yuccas just two essentials, Sun and excellent drainage.&lt;br /&gt;With some of the hardier species from the East/S.East you might get away with light shade and a slightly moister position.&lt;br /&gt;However, I've found that species from the West/S.West aren't so accomodating and at least with me, they've proved to be very intolerant of excess moisture, even in the Summer.&lt;br /&gt;With these latter species, if they're planted in positions where there's constant dampness, root problems, particularly rotting are an ever present danger and these are difficult, almost impossible things to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting Out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;A south to west facing position in well drained soil is o.k. for the eastern species, while the western species need as much sun as you can give them, a south facing spot being ideal.&lt;br /&gt;If you live in a cold area, planting them against a south facing wall will help give them some protection from the worst of the elements as these areas tend to be a bit drier than the open garden.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;As noted above, I've found that the ability of the soil to dry out quickly is critical for the western species and for those whose gardens have less than perfect drainage, I'd definitely recommend building raised beds.&lt;br /&gt;There are those who advocate digging in piles of gravel to improve the drainage, but if like my garden clay makes up a large part of the soil, then to my mind you're simply wasting time, effort and money.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some of the eastern species make attractive pot/tub plants for the sunny patio with Y.Gloriosa variagata and various forms of Y.Filamentosa being popular.&lt;br /&gt;I prefer plain clay pots for larger plants, only using plastic when I’m growing plants from seed or offsets.&lt;br /&gt;A straight mix of half and half J.Innes no2 or 3 is fine and if you want to add more gravel, then it won’t do any harm.&lt;br /&gt;If you use plastic or glazed pots, then increase the amount of drainage material.&lt;br /&gt;Remember, unlike plain clays, plastic or glazed pots do not “breathe” so water takes far longer to evaporate, the compost must dry out quickly otherwise you could get problems. Posted by Mike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-6181402360088278878?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/6181402360088278878/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=6181402360088278878' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/6181402360088278878'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/6181402360088278878'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/10/yuccas-supreme-architectural-plants.html' title='Yuccas! Supreme Architectural Plants.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RyMNKgyCSMI/AAAAAAAAAN8/Uo8ZQLrb1zA/s72-c/yucca+baccarta.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-9087031576636584768</id><published>2007-09-18T11:37:00.001+01:00</published><updated>2008-03-16T12:33:59.571+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Phoenix Canariensis The Canary Island Date Palm</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvuFU_I2plI/AAAAAAAAAMw/SC7d9OmepDE/s1600-h/sunset.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5114828397401777746" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Phoenix Canariensis" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvuFU_I2plI/AAAAAAAAAMw/SC7d9OmepDE/s200/sunset.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Although Trachycarpus Fortunei would win the Gold Medal for being the most recommended palm, the one you’re most likely to see growing in gardens here in Birmingham is Phoenix Canariensis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this popularity is easy to explain.&lt;br /&gt;It looks different; most gardeners like to grow something a little unusual occasionaly and P.Canariensis certainly fits the bill.&lt;br /&gt;It’s available almost anywhere; I’ve seen P.Canariensis for sale on market stalls, in d.i.y. stores, corner shops, even in supermarkets, so with this kind of exposure, it's no wonder everyone's buying them.&lt;br /&gt;It’s cheap; at £5.99 for a 2ft plus palm, you can afford to plant a forest of them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This popularity isn’t confined to the U.K. either.&lt;br /&gt;Like T.Fortunei, P.Canariensis seems to have found a niche in the palm world and it can now be found growing in virtually every country where the climate is suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I've noticed about the P.Canariensis I’ve seen growing in various parts of Birmingham, is the lack of winter protection.&lt;br /&gt;Despite this, all the palms that I’ve kept my eye on in passing are thriving and are a pleasure to see.&lt;br /&gt;Clearly, the gardeners must be doing something right or P.Canariensis is hardier than we believe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing anything up to 60ft tall and looking very majestic with it, P.Canariensis is I think everyone’s idea of what a palm should look like.&lt;br /&gt;To come across a group of them growing in the wild is a very impressive sight and if it doesn’t raise at least an "Ooh" and an "Ahh", then you have no Soul.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;For cultivation tips I refer you to my blog  &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html" target="_blank"&gt;Palms! Planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The one thing you should remember is that P.Canariensis grows in what amounts to semi arid conditions and it’s essential that they’re planted in fast draining soil or compost.&lt;br /&gt;Any excess water hanging around the roots will cause no end of problems and could end up causing the death of your palm.  Posted by Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-9087031576636584768?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/9087031576636584768/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=9087031576636584768' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/9087031576636584768'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/9087031576636584768'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/09/phoenix-canariensis-canary-island-date.html' title='Phoenix Canariensis The Canary Island Date Palm'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvuFU_I2plI/AAAAAAAAAMw/SC7d9OmepDE/s72-c/sunset.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-5906088340245268338</id><published>2007-08-20T10:36:00.004+01:00</published><updated>2008-06-05T11:25:24.684+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Some flowering plants for the exotic garden.</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Introduction&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is another Blog to which I'll be adding items to occasionally but this one is about some of the flowering plants I grow.&lt;br /&gt;Featured here are:Roscoea, Zauschneria Californica, Salvia Patens, Dicentra Scandens, Cannas and "Whiplash" Arisaemas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Roscoea, the hardiest gingers.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rslg-F3lXfI/AAAAAAAAAJI/y2XCKBvE7xo/s1600-h/Picture.jpg+018.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5100714672817266162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Roscoea Auriculata " src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rslg-F3lXfI/AAAAAAAAAJI/y2XCKBvE7xo/s200/Picture.jpg+018.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Named in honour of William Roscoe, founder of Liverpool University Ness Botanical Gardens, the genus Roscoea has a long history of cultivation here in the U.K.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A genus of nearly 20 species, they grow at high altitudes in the Himalayas and South West China etc.&lt;br /&gt;Normally found growing in well drained meadows, on slopes and in lightly forested area, they are the most northerly growing members of the ginger family. (Zingiberacae)&lt;br /&gt;All of the Roscoea can be regarded as frost hardy in U.K. gardens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;By tradition, they’ve always been looked on as plants for the alpine and woodland specialist and despite the present day popularity of other members of the ginger family; this still seems to be the case today.&lt;br /&gt;In recent years, there have been several new introductions and by carefully choosing the species, you can have Roscoea in flower from late May until mid autumn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roscoea are easy to grow plants with no particular vices.&lt;br /&gt;Light shade is a good place to grow them and they don't mind a bit of late afternoon sun.&lt;br /&gt;Soil should be well drained but moist with plenty of organic matter dug in.&lt;br /&gt;If you water and fertilize well during the growing season you'll soon build up a really nice clump.&lt;br /&gt;Winter protection isn't required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Zauschneria Californica, California Fuschia, Humming Bird Trumpet.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RtQFH13lXiI/AAAAAAAAAJg/s8Y8-U6Lqto/s1600-h/california.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5103709909995052578" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="zauschneria californica" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RtQFH13lXiI/AAAAAAAAAJg/s8Y8-U6Lqto/s200/california.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Believe it or not, I’ve spent many hours keeping watch on my Z.Californica hoping to see a humming bird sipping nectar from the flowers.&lt;br /&gt;Sadly, there seems to be a shortage of humming birds here in Birmingham and I haven’t seen one yet!&lt;br /&gt;Still, ever the optimist, I continue to watch in the hope that one day one will come along.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, I’ve grown Z.Californica on and off for over twenty years and it’s one of my all time favourite plants.&lt;br /&gt;For late summer colour it can’t be beaten, the fiery orange red flowers giving the border a real lift. (“Lift” also known as the "WOW" factor because you can’t miss it. The larger the plant the bigger the "WOW"!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Native to California, (you guessed) Z.Californica is a low growing, problem free, easy to grow hardy perennial for the hot sunny border.&lt;br /&gt;Once established, it’s drought resistant and requires little in the way of maintenance.&lt;br /&gt;In late winter, cut off the dead stems from the previous years growth and you’ll be rewarded with a mass of new shoots which in my garden flower from mid August through to first frosts.&lt;br /&gt;Z.Californica does have one vice in that it can be invasive.&lt;br /&gt;Personally, I don’t mind this but if it does spread too far, it’s very easy to pull or dig up the stuff you don’t need.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;So my friends dash out and buy Z.Californica, plant it in the sunniest, hottest spot you’ve got and prepare to be “WOWED".&lt;br /&gt;Of course, you can always join me and spend your days watching and waiting for the elusive humming birds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Salvia Patens&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RtQF5V3lXkI/AAAAAAAAAJw/p_o4YA0By5I/s1600-h/salvia+patens+.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5103710760398577218" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Salvia Patens" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RtQF5V3lXkI/AAAAAAAAAJw/p_o4YA0By5I/s200/salvia+patens+.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;For this plant, we move from California down into Mexico.&lt;br /&gt;Here we find Salvia Patens, which is another easy to grow trouble free plant that’s worthy of a place in anyone’s garden, in fact a real gem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most notable feature of course is the flowers, which are large, usually described as beak shaped and are one of the most stunning, intense blues you’re ever likely to see.&lt;br /&gt;One other notable feature is that amongst a genus of plants which normally have fibrous roots, S.Patens grows from tubers, just like Dahlias.&lt;br /&gt;The flowering period is usually July/August but this can be extended by cutting off the old stems as the flowers die.&lt;br /&gt;Plant in sun in a rich, well drained, moist soil and give it plenty of water and fertilizer when in growth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually classed as a half-hardy perennial, S.Patens is hardy in my garden so I leave it where it is.&lt;br /&gt;However, if you don’t feel that confident, dig it up when the foliage has died down and store the tubers in damp peat in a frost free area for the winter.&lt;br /&gt;Pot up the tubers in spring and put them somewhere warm to bring them back into growth, then plant out after last frosts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Despite continuing advances in digital imaging, I’ve yet to see a digital photo of S.Patens which does justice to the flower colour.&lt;br /&gt;The closest I came to capturing it was some years ago when I used Kodachrome 25 in my 35mm film camera and although digital is catching up, I think we’ll still have to wait awhile before it’s as good as film at rendering colour.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Dicentra Scandens "Golden Tears"&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt0xEF3lXvI/AAAAAAAAALI/TcK8QejkYU0/s1600-h/Picture+017flowers.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5106291498872561394" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Discentra Scandens" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt0xEF3lXvI/AAAAAAAAALI/TcK8QejkYU0/s200/Picture+017flowers.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Dicentras, are a genus of generally low growing perennials from moist mountainous and woodland areas of North America and Asia, the most popular being D.Spectabilis the much loved “Bleeding Hearts”.&lt;br /&gt;Hidden away among the 20 or so species, are a couple of little known climbers, D.Macrantha and D.Scandens. D.Scandens is probably the easiest to obtain and this blog is my bit of homage to a very fine plant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I grew my D.Scandens from seed many years ago and when I first saw it I had trouble believing it was a climbing plant at all.&lt;br /&gt;This is because it has none of the “hard” woody look about it that most climbers have.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt0wx13lXuI/AAAAAAAAALA/tEfGYso-AZI/s1600-h/Picture+011.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5106291185339948770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Foliage. D.Scandens" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt0wx13lXuI/AAAAAAAAALA/tEfGYso-AZI/s200/Picture+011.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; With its bronzy coloured almost translucent stems, tendrils which are little thicker than a human hair and delicate looking foliage, it doesn’t look as though it has the strength to climb anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don’t let all this delicacy and fragility fool you though because this plant is a wolf in sheep’s clothing.&lt;br /&gt;Once it gets into its stride, it will amaze you with its speed of growth, walls, fences, shrubs, trees, in fact D.Scandens will grow up, over and around anything, including you if you stand still long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now reading this, you might think that D.Scandens is a real thug and has no place in your garden, but you’d be very wrong.&lt;br /&gt;For a few brief weeks in summer it graces the garden with its beauty, the panicles of flowers hanging down like little drops of gold.&lt;br /&gt;Then, almost as quickly as it arrived, it disappears completely leaving behind just a few, easily removed dried up stems to mark its passing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you plant it in a well drained, rich, moist soil with some shade to stop the roots from drying out, then I’m sure that D.Scandens will bring you as much pleasure as it does me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cannas&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvzJ1PI2ppI/AAAAAAAAANQ/r5_V1bi0UU8/s1600-h/C.Indica.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5115185193219958418" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Canna Indica" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvzJ1PI2ppI/AAAAAAAAANQ/r5_V1bi0UU8/s200/C.Indica.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Cannas are another plant that has made something of a comeback in recent years bringing height and with some varieties gaudy leaf colour into the garden. &lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like most people, I’ve always thought of Cannas as garden plants but this is far from the case.&lt;br /&gt;In fact, Cannas have a history of cultivation as a food source stretching back hundreds possibly thousands of years.&lt;br /&gt;The rhizomes of C.Edulis and other species are a rich source of starch, the leaves and stems can be used as animal fodder while the young shoots are cooked and eaten as a vegetable.&lt;br /&gt;In fact nothing is wasted even the seeds are used in rattles and in tortillas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvzKEvI2pqI/AAAAAAAAANY/kbbeOEY9K7U/s1600-h/Canna+Striata.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5115185459507930786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Canna Striata" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvzKEvI2pqI/AAAAAAAAANY/kbbeOEY9K7U/s200/Canna+Striata.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The first garden hybrids were created in the middle of the 19th century and this led to an explosion of new varieties ready for an eager gardening public to buy.&lt;br /&gt;In the U.K; Cannas fell out of favour in the early 20th century and many of the new introductions were lost to cultivation.&lt;br /&gt;There’s a fair bit more I could write about these magnificent plants but with space at a premium, I’ll finish this section here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I’ve grown many varieties of Cannas over the years but nowadays I tend to stick with four of my favourites and they are: C.Indica, C.Musifolia, C."Striata" and C."Tropicana".&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cultivating Cannas is easy, in fact it really isn't any different from growing Hedychiums.&lt;br /&gt;The rhizomes should be planted in a warm sunny spot, in moist soil that's had plenty of well rotted manure dug in.&lt;br /&gt;Cannas love moisture and they're greedy feeders so for best growth and appearance, really give them a good regular soaking and feed heavily with tomato fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;At the end of the season, the rhizomes can be lifted and stored for the winter or they can be left in the ground and mulched for protection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;"Whiplash" Arisaemas&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvozFPI2phI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/fwadqVqyCb8/s1600-h/ariseama2.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5114456491888649746" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="A.Costatum" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvozFPI2phI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/fwadqVqyCb8/s200/ariseama2.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The plant in this photo, which if you’ve never seen one before probably looks like something out of an “Alien” film is actually Arisaema Costatum.&lt;br /&gt;A.Costatum is one of several of the genus which are collectively known as “Whiplash” Arisaemas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the name “whiplash” is the threadlike appendage that you can see wrapped around the leaves of the plant in the photo.&lt;br /&gt;This “whip” which can be anything up to 36ins long on some species is an extension of the spadix and it seems that it serves a very useful purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the leaves and the spathe (flower) expand the “whip” unravels and stretches out along the forest floor where it gives off enticing odours.&lt;br /&gt;These odours attract insects to the plant and these in turn pollinate the spadix.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, the enticing odours don’t seem to be working on my A.Costatum and I’m still waiting for it to set seed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to grow these strange but wonderful plants, here are some more species:  A.Griffithii, A.Propinquum, A.Speciosum and A.Thunbergii.&lt;br /&gt;For tips on cultivation, see my blog &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/growing-arisaemas.html" target="_blank"&gt;Growing Arisaemas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Hibiscus Coccineus &amp;amp; H.Moscheutos&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/R-zaeT-bxsI/AAAAAAAAAOo/OyDqwJCmAik/s1600-h/htop_1153729435_850.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182757485489669826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Hibiscus coccineus" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/R-zaeT-bxsI/AAAAAAAAAOo/OyDqwJCmAik/s200/htop_1153729435_850.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;When you consider that there are two hundred plus species of Hibiscus growing throughout the mainly warmer regions of the World, it comes as a bit of a surprise to find that only two of them are regularly offered for sale here in the U.K. H.rosa-sinensis and H.syriacus.&lt;br /&gt;In order to redress the situation a bit, here are two more species for you to try, if you've a mind to that is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;H.coccineus (Scarlet rose mallow) is the first one.&lt;br /&gt;This beauty comes from the southern States of the U.S.A where it's found growing in wetlands such as swamps, marshes and river systems.&lt;br /&gt;It grows to eight feet tall and on the slender stems are borne the most stunning scarlet flowers, each between six and eight inches across.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second one is H.moscheutos (Swamp rose mallow) and again this is a wetland plant.&lt;br /&gt;This one is found in Texas and the eastern States of the U.S.A. as far north as Ontario.&lt;br /&gt;H.moscheutos is one of the shorter Hibiscus growing to four feet tall.&lt;br /&gt;It is also very variable both in form and petal colour and there are many unnamed sub-species.&lt;br /&gt;Plant breeders have also been at work on this plant and they've produced hybrids with&lt;br /&gt;flowers up to ten inches in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;These Hibiscus are very hardy and easy to grow, but to get the best out of them they do need plenty of water.&lt;br /&gt;A rich soil and plenty of fertilizer when in growth will all help the plants along and keep them in tip top condition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;They make excellent plants for a sunny bog garden or a spot that's permanently moist and if you grow them in a pot, then you can stand them in a pond where they look very effective.&lt;br /&gt;They can also be grown in the herbaceous border, but you'll have to keep them very well watered as they don't like drying out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen these species for sale, so like me you'll have to grow your own from seed.&lt;br /&gt;I soak the seed for twenty four hours in water that's just luke warm and then plant them into fibre pots.&lt;br /&gt;When the seeds have germinated and the plants are large enough, the fibre pots can be planted straight into the open garden.&lt;br /&gt;(Using fibre pots eliminates the shock of transplanting which is something else Hibiscus aren't keen on.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;These Hibiscus really are excellent garden plants and I think it's a great pity that no one seems to bother with them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-5906088340245268338?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/5906088340245268338/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=5906088340245268338' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5906088340245268338'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5906088340245268338'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/08/some-unusual-plants-for-exotic-garden.html' title='Some flowering plants for the exotic garden.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rslg-F3lXfI/AAAAAAAAAJI/y2XCKBvE7xo/s72-c/Picture.jpg+018.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-9112135386281046592</id><published>2007-08-18T11:29:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-09-08T11:55:28.333+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Fascicularia Bicolor. Last of the Bromeliads</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt_QpF3lXwI/AAAAAAAAALQ/ByAe06Wyq3k/s1600-h/F.Bicolor.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5107029906829958914" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Fascicular Bicolor" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt_QpF3lXwI/AAAAAAAAALQ/ByAe06Wyq3k/s200/F.Bicolor.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Fascicularia Bicolor is the third and last of the Bromeliads that I grow.&lt;br /&gt;Another Chilean plant, it has, like Bilbergia Nutans and Puya Alpestris turned out to be one of the best plants that I've bought for my garden.&lt;br /&gt;These three plants alone have amazed me with their ease of growth, freedom from pests and their hardiness&lt;br /&gt;They are without doubt, some of the most rewarding plants I’ve ever grown and I’d recommend them to anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;F.Bicolor is a clump forming plant made up of several vaguely urn shaped rosettes.&lt;br /&gt;On my plants, the leaves are narrow, about 12 inches long and they’re armed with spines along each leaf margin.&lt;br /&gt;As the rosettes age, they become more open in their growth and the leaves begin to turn a silvery colour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;On reaching maturity, the rosettes are almost fully open and in late summer the leaves turn a bright red or scarlet colour.&lt;br /&gt;At this point a flower head develops and if you look closely at the photo, you'll see that this is made up of many small buds.&lt;br /&gt;It's the petals on these buds opening up that give the flower head its pale blue colour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, once it’s flowered, the urn dies away to be replaced by new growth.&lt;br /&gt;You do need a bit of patience with this plant because flowering doesn’t happen every&lt;br /&gt;year, so you need to wait until more of the rosettes have matured before it happens again.&lt;br /&gt;Mind you, it’s worth the wait because to see two or three of the rosettes in full colour is really spectacular.&lt;br /&gt;(If you want to take a photo of your plant including the blue flowers, then you'll need to be quick.&lt;br /&gt;The reason for this haste, is due to the fact that the petals are a magnet for every mini-slug and wood louse in the area and in a very short space of time you're flowers have been eaten.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In the garden&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cultivation is easy, full sun and a very well drained soil is all that’s required.&lt;br /&gt;For more details, see my Blog at &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/puya-alpestris-gem-plant.html" target="_blank"&gt;Puya Alpestris a gem plant.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;That my gardening friends, is about it. Posted by Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-9112135386281046592?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/9112135386281046592/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=9112135386281046592' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/9112135386281046592'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/9112135386281046592'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/08/fascicularia-bicolor-last-of-bromeliads.html' title='Fascicularia Bicolor. Last of the Bromeliads'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rt_QpF3lXwI/AAAAAAAAALQ/ByAe06Wyq3k/s72-c/F.Bicolor.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-5985070476918339993</id><published>2007-07-16T11:27:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-10-05T10:48:15.608+01:00</updated><title type='text'>A miscellany of tips &amp; "bits 'n' bobs"</title><content type='html'>&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Introduction&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;This blog, to which I'll be adding to from time to time is made up of tips, observations and general gardening info which I hope will be of use to the newcomer. To start the ball rolling though, I'll begin with a popular myth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Slugs, Snails and Puppy Dog tails.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rq8HgrQQt9I/AAAAAAAAAHc/JdrR6WkrTAA/s1600-h/picture18.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5093297961527457746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Snails and gravel" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rq8HgrQQt9I/AAAAAAAAAHc/JdrR6WkrTAA/s200/picture18.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I very much doubt if there's a gardener in the land, possibly the World who hasn't heard an expert say "If you want to deter Slugs and Snails then put down a layer of gravel" or it could well be eggshells, bark chips or some magic potion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Well my friends, look at the photo and you will see in glorious colour, irrefutable proof that gravel does not deter Slugs and Snails and if you look at the photo below, you'll see that plants with sharp spines don't deter them either.&lt;br /&gt;As you can see, this little fella on the left, was on his way to dine on one of the remnants of my alpine plant collection while his chum was passing through.&lt;br /&gt;Needless to say, after I took the pictures they were on their way, winging it through the stratosphere to places anew.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RtaLGl3lXlI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/H1PpW2029Bg/s1600-h/snai.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5104420173031759442" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Another Snail" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RtaLGl3lXlI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/H1PpW2029Bg/s200/snai.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Let me assure you, that in all the years I've been gardening, I've never known gravel to deter Slugs or anything else. (Human intruders excepted)&lt;br /&gt;You have only to look at a Slug or Snail to realize that they're ideally suited to moving over gravel or anything else that nature or humans put in their way.&lt;br /&gt;After all, the slimy trail they leave behind isn't just for show or to make us go URGH!&lt;br /&gt;It gives protection to the "foot", acts as a means of travelling from A to B and when it's finished dining on your choice plants, provides it with a trail to follow back home to that lovely cool, moist, bark chip mulch that you've provided for them to live in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;So fellow gardeners, forget gravel, bark chips, eggshells, beer traps (much better if you drink it) and dancing around naked by the light of a full Moon casting spells, stick to the traditional ways.&lt;br /&gt;Namely, a dose of salt, creeping around in the middle of the night with a sharp knitting needle, the heel of a boot squash (also good for vine weevils) or the traditional slug pellet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Two Scoops and a Seed Washer&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RsliFl3lXhI/AAAAAAAAAJY/uiluLSNwpK0/s1600-h/Picture.jpg+007.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5100715901177912850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Two Scoops and a Seed Washer" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RsliFl3lXhI/AAAAAAAAAJY/uiluLSNwpK0/s200/Picture.jpg+007.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The photo left shows some items that are easily made and hopefully, you might find to be very useful.&lt;br /&gt;(If they look brand-new, that’s because I made new ones especially for the photo, no mucky pictures on my Blog.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The two items on the left are scoops made from plastic bottles.&lt;br /&gt;The first of these is made from a bottle that once held “Radox” bath foam.&lt;br /&gt;This is useful for measuring the ingredients of a compost mix, so one full scoop equals one part of the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The centre scoop is made from an empty “pop” bottle; those with straight sides are the best to use.&lt;br /&gt;I use these for repotting especially with plants like Agaves which have sharp spiny leaves.&lt;br /&gt;If you part fill the scoop with compost mix then gently squeeze the open end partialy together, you’ll find that you can accurately pour the compost between the inside of the pot and the plant root ball, no more spilling compost everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The third item on the right is a seed washer or colander.&lt;br /&gt;I’ve always grown plants from seed and apart from hardy annuals and dust like seed such as Begonias I always give the seeds a good soaking.&lt;br /&gt;This can be anything from 48hrs to a week.&lt;br /&gt;Every twenty four hours, I decant the seeds into the washer and hold them for a minute or two under a gently flowing tap.&lt;br /&gt;This washes away any chemical inhibitors that have leached out of the seed.&lt;br /&gt;I can then plant them up or put them in another container for more soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Making your own log roll&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvzJYfI2pnI/AAAAAAAAANA/TcaGfEBgV_o/s1600-h/Log+Roll.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5115184699298719346" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Log Roll" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RvzJYfI2pnI/AAAAAAAAANA/TcaGfEBgV_o/s200/Log+Roll.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I'm the first to admit that my d.i.y. projects leave a lot to be desired.&lt;br /&gt;I'm terrible at hanging wallpaper and don't even mention woodworking projects. (Except this one it's easy.)&lt;br /&gt;Despite these minor setbacks, I do have the occasional success and making log roll is one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like many gardeners, I've used log roll for edging and the occasional raised bed but I've found that the roll that's available commercially, is pretty dissapointing stuff.&lt;br /&gt;For starters, you're usually limited to three widths 6, 9 and 12inch.&lt;br /&gt;The 6inch makes good firewood, the 9inch makes passable edging, while the 12inch is bit too wide for edging but not quite wide enough enough to make a decent depth raised bed.&lt;br /&gt;I've also found that although the roll is usually treated with wood preservative, it really isn't up to much.&lt;br /&gt;Some roll that I've used started to split and rot after only two years use. Very poor!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;So what's the answer? I hear you all ask.&lt;br /&gt;Easy really; make your own!&lt;br /&gt;I should say here, that I doubt if making your own will work out any cheaper than buying the commercial stuff: in fact, it's probably more expensive.&lt;br /&gt;From my point of view though, the extra expense is cancelled out by the fact that if it's made properly, your log roll really will last for years and years and a long time to boot. (Trust me, I'm an expert.)&lt;br /&gt;  (Oh dear! I've heard it all now an expert. Ha!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your own log roll, you’ll need the following materials.&lt;br /&gt;The “log” bits are made from wood called “rail”.&lt;br /&gt;This has the same “D” shaped profile as the roll that you buy and mine came from a local branch of Wickes builder’s merchants.&lt;br /&gt;For making curves or shapes, you’ll need some lengths or a coil of strong wire.&lt;br /&gt;This is nailed to the back of your roll with wire staples.&lt;br /&gt;For straight lengths, it's best to screw or nail the "logs" to lengths of  2x1 timber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before assembly paint all the wood with preservative.&lt;br /&gt;I use Wilkinson’s own brand called “Colour your garden” and I’ve found it to be excellent stuff.&lt;br /&gt;I give the wood two coats, allowing the first to dry thoroughly before putting on the second coat and that's it.&lt;br /&gt;All you need do now, is put it all together.&lt;br /&gt;I won’t go into how you actually make the roll because I’m pretty certain that you’re all far better at d.i.y. than I am, but rest assured, if I can make log roll then so can you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-5985070476918339993?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/5985070476918339993/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=5985070476918339993' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5985070476918339993'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5985070476918339993'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/07/miscellany-of-tips-bits-n-bobs.html' title='A miscellany of tips &amp; &quot;bits &apos;n&apos; bobs&quot;'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rq8HgrQQt9I/AAAAAAAAAHc/JdrR6WkrTAA/s72-c/picture18.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-8497386127937481377</id><published>2007-06-14T09:52:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-09-10T10:20:35.380+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Trachycarpus Fortunei the most recommended palm ever?</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RrrisLQQuAI/AAAAAAAAAIA/6Yn_rHVHpI0/s1600-h/Picture+018a.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5096635176886253570" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Trachycarpus Fortunei" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RrrisLQQuAI/AAAAAAAAAIA/6Yn_rHVHpI0/s200/Picture+018a.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;If they were to award a Gold Medal for the most recommended and probably the most popular palm ever, then I’m sure that Trachycarpus Fortunei would win it hands down.&lt;br /&gt;Since its introduction into the U.K. by plant hunter Robert Fortune, it’s stature and popularity has spiraled ever upwards, the only break (a very long one) being when growing palms and other exotics went out of fashion in the early 1900’s.&lt;br /&gt;Here in the U.K; the late 1980’s saw a renewed interest in growing palms and there again was T.Fortunei blazing the trail for all the other palm species that have graced our shores since.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think I can safely say that T.Fortunei has set the standard by which all other palms are judged.&lt;br /&gt;Its hardiness and ease of growth are legendary, it’s one of the easiest species to grow from seed and in my experience, it isn’t temperamental like many of the “new” palm species.&lt;br /&gt;As a starter palm it cannot be faulted the only problem is, that you might think that all palms are this easy to grow but sadly they’re not. (Some are right stroppy.)&lt;br /&gt;A mark of its popularity, is that nowadays it’s grown throughout the temperate world with only the tropics seeing its onward march come to a halt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before I finish this section, I’d like to point out that despite all the glowing words you’ll read about T.Fortunei, it does have an “Achilles Heel” the wind!&lt;br /&gt;Strong winds can do quite a bit of damage to the leaves of T.Fortunei leaving them looking pretty ragged.&lt;br /&gt;So, if you’ve got the kind of garden that is torn by gale force winds then you’ll need to find a very sheltered spot or grow an alternative like T.Wagnerianus or T.Takil both of which are excellent palms and pretty easy to grow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In the Garden&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;For actually planting out your palm, I'd refer you to my blog &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html" target="_blank"&gt;Palms!planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When it comes to siting your plant, T.Fortunei is very accomodating being happy in sun or lght shade.&lt;br /&gt;Give it a well drained site enriched with plenty of well rotted manure, lots of water and fertilizer during the growing season and you won't go far wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;T.Fortunei also makes an excellent pot or tub plant.&lt;br /&gt;Here again, it isn't to fussy and a rich, well drained mix of J.I.no2/3 with fertilizer granules, supplementery watering and feeding and a mulch to top of the pot, will give you a really stunning palm. Posted by Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-8497386127937481377?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/8497386127937481377/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=8497386127937481377' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/8497386127937481377'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/8497386127937481377'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/06/trachycarpus-fortunii-most-recommended.html' title='Trachycarpus Fortunei the most recommended palm ever?'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RrrisLQQuAI/AAAAAAAAAIA/6Yn_rHVHpI0/s72-c/Picture+018a.jpg.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-5541539377582917161</id><published>2007-05-29T10:46:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-09-10T10:18:58.357+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Summer Care for Tree Ferns.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RrBf3bQQt_I/AAAAAAAAAH4/RMexlT1dIf4/s1600-h/Picture+016a.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5093676584369436658" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 5px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="New crozier on D.Antarctica." src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RrBf3bQQt_I/AAAAAAAAAH4/RMexlT1dIf4/s200/Picture+016a.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Come the end of May, any winter protection on your tree ferns can be removed.&lt;br /&gt;Although you should still keep an eye on the weather forecasts, the danger of any damaging frosts at this time of year is minimal.&lt;br /&gt;So we can now move on to caring for our tree ferns during the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;As with all plants, we should look to their natural environment to give us clues as to how we should look after them.&lt;br /&gt;In the case of D.Antarctica, they come from areas with a high water content such as forests, some of which are at high altitude (cloud forests) alongside stream beds and gullies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I should point out, that although they like plenty of water, they will not tolerate waterlogged roots so drainage must be first class.&lt;br /&gt;Once established, they’ll also stand some dryness but this should not be for prolonged periods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;For best growth and appearance, frequent watering is a must.&lt;br /&gt;If you have the time try to water twice a day or more, especially in hot weather and thoroughly soak the plant.&lt;br /&gt;If you only have the time to water it once then do it in the evening, evaporation is considerably slower at this time due to the temperature cooling down thus giving the fern more time to take up water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a good quality general fertilizer and apply it at one half or one third full strength at every other watering.&lt;br /&gt;This is called the “little and often” principle and means that your fern gets small amounts of fertilizer at regular intervals rather than in one big dose.&lt;br /&gt;Once a month, drench the fern with plain water, this will leach out any unused fertilizer salts.&lt;br /&gt;If these salts build up, they can cause root damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In the Garden&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the instructions in my Blog &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html" target="_blank"&gt;Palms!Planting out your treasures&lt;/a&gt; you won’t go far wrong.&lt;br /&gt;In case you’re wondering, I use the same method for putting in all my plants I just scale it down for small pots.&lt;br /&gt;Clearly, you don’t need to dig out a large area for a plant in a 4 inch pot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you buy your plant as a plain log, that is without any roots, don’t plant too much of it in ground, you only need enough to keep it stable.&lt;br /&gt;Use stakes, three if necessary to stop it from rocking about and remove them when the fern has rooted.&lt;br /&gt;Keep the log well watered at all times during the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Where to site your fern can pose a problem or two.&lt;br /&gt;With two points of interest, namely the fronds and the trunk you want to show them both at their best.&lt;br /&gt;The text books tell us that filtered sunlight is ideal but unfortunately, not many of us have this kind of situation in our garden.&lt;br /&gt;I’ve found that a position in open shade avoiding at least part of the hot afternoon sun is fine.&lt;br /&gt;Late afternoon or early evening sun when the heat has gone out of it is also o.k. Don’t try to shoehorn your fern into a tight space, give it some room to develop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;D.Squarrosa&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;I’ve included D.Squarrosa because it’s one of those plants which seem to be on sale everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;D.Squarrosa is a New Zealand tree fern which unfortunately isn’t reliably hardy in the U.K.&lt;br /&gt;That isn’t to say it can’t be grown outdoors here, in fact they have some planted out at Birmingham Botanical Gardens but they need full winter protection to succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;What usually happens is that people buy one of the small plants that are available nowadays and leave it outside for the winter, where the top growth promptly dies off.&lt;br /&gt;This effectively kills off the growing point of the fern preventing any further growth from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If this happens to you, don’t throw the fern away because you’ll probably find some new growth coming up at the base of your fern.&lt;br /&gt;Strange as it may seem, this new growth seems to be far hardier than the parent plant and you should be able to leave the fern out all year round. (I do!)&lt;br /&gt;D.Squarrosa should always be kept moist and on no account should it be allowed to dry out. Posted by Mike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-5541539377582917161?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/5541539377582917161/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=5541539377582917161' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5541539377582917161'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5541539377582917161'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/05/summer-care-for-tree-ferns.html' title='Summer Care for Tree Ferns.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RrBf3bQQt_I/AAAAAAAAAH4/RMexlT1dIf4/s72-c/Picture+016a.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-1442451289164526122</id><published>2007-05-18T11:57:00.001+01:00</published><updated>2007-09-01T10:44:14.979+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Agaves in pots and in the garden.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RpX7_34Kq7I/AAAAAAAAAGg/KILzsomL9HE/s1600-h/exotics.jpg+010.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5086248428934704050" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 5px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="A desert border. " src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RpX7_34Kq7I/AAAAAAAAAGg/KILzsomL9HE/s200/exotics.jpg+010.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Although they don't appeal to everyone, Agaves are an essential plant if you want to give your garden the Mediterranean look.&lt;br /&gt;Large potted specimens can be used as focal point or feature plants, while smaller ones can be used to decorate a sunny area or patio.&lt;br /&gt;If you've got enough space, you can create a "desert look" by pot planting them and covering the ground with a decorative mulch. (See photo right taken at Birmingham Botanical Gardens)&lt;br /&gt;At the end of the season and before the first frosts, the pots are lifted and the plants are stored away for the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Of the two hundred or so recognized species, most of those of interest to us here in the U.K. come from the southern States of the U.S.A. and northern Mexico.&lt;br /&gt;By a stroke of good fortune, many of these species are frost hardy and this opens up the possibility of growing them all year round in the open garden.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, this hardiness comes at a price and in order for it to be of any benefit, plants must be kept as dry as possible over the winter months.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation Part 1&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RqxnebQQt8I/AAAAAAAAAHU/m5u1-xUBIV8/s1600-h/Picture+12.jpg.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5092559051058886594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Agave Americana" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RqxnebQQt8I/AAAAAAAAAHU/m5u1-xUBIV8/s200/Picture+12.jpg.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;i&gt;Pots &amp; Compost:&lt;/i&gt; Repotting is best done in the spring and you don't need to repot annually, every two or three years is fine.&lt;br /&gt;Avoid overpotting as this can lead to unused soil going "sour".&lt;br /&gt;Moving up one pot size is o.k; two is passable but don't go any further than that.&lt;br /&gt;Don't fill the pot right to the top, leave a space between the bottom of the lower leaves and the top of the compost.&lt;br /&gt;This space can be between half and one inch deep for small pots and two inches plus for the larger sizes.&lt;br /&gt;Fill the gap with pea gravel or small pebbles.&lt;br /&gt;This "collar" allows surface water to drain away quickly from around the neck of the plant and also allows air to circulate keeping the neck area dry.&lt;br /&gt;Water trapped in this area can cause problems especially in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to actually repotting the plants, Agaves with upright growing leaves or those which grow as flattish rosettes are the easiest to repot.&lt;br /&gt;A.Americana with its contorted leaves, is unfortunately a law unto itself and I've collected a few battle scars tangling with this particular beast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two things I would like to point out.&lt;br /&gt;You can cut the terminal leaf spine off with a sharp pair of secateurs.&lt;br /&gt;As long as you don't cut into the flesh of the leaf tip itself you'll do no harm.&lt;br /&gt;Not all Agaves have spines along the leaf margins, some have sharp edges for a bit of a change.&lt;br /&gt;Take my word for it these edges are as sharp as razors and will easily cut into your fingers, you have been warned!&lt;br /&gt;The best advice that I can offer, is to wear thick gloves and take care.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Overwintering:&lt;/i&gt; How you overwinter your plants depends on which varieties you grow.&lt;br /&gt;The hardier types such as A.Desertii, A.Utahensis, A.Palmeri and A.Parryi (and the plain leaf A.Americana) can all be overwintered outdoors provided you can keep them &lt;i&gt;DRY&lt;/i&gt; this is critical. (Somewhere like a covered patio is fine.)&lt;br /&gt;Variagated types like A.a.variegata or A.a. medio-picta alba are some of the less hardy Agaves and are best brought indoors to a frost free area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you notice the leaves taking on a slightly wrinkled and soft appearance, this usually means they need a drop of water.&lt;br /&gt;This is easily done by putting the pot into a pot saucer which has a diameter half to one inch larger than the base of the pot.&lt;br /&gt;Fill the saucer with water and allow the plant to soak it up and that's it.&lt;br /&gt;If your plants are kept in a warm sunny area such as a conservatory, you might need to water them a couple of times over the winter but don't overdo it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; If anyone has any questions about growing Agaves in pots, then send me an e.mail and I'll see if I can help.&lt;br /&gt;Cultivation Part 2 to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-1442451289164526122?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/1442451289164526122'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/1442451289164526122'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/05/growing-agaves-in-pots-and-in-garden.html' title='Growing Agaves in pots and in the garden.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RpX7_34Kq7I/AAAAAAAAAGg/KILzsomL9HE/s72-c/exotics.jpg+010.bmp' height='72' width='72'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-2006354506706607867</id><published>2007-04-23T11:21:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-04T10:38:29.305+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Bilbergia Nutans (Queens Tears)  another hardy Bromeliad</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rn47XClMbyI/AAAAAAAAAEM/d0m8bB2CooM/s1600-h/Picture+012.bmp"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079562696736403234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN:0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Bilbergia Nutans" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rn47XClMbyI/AAAAAAAAAEM/d0m8bB2CooM/s200/Picture+012.bmp" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Among my collection of exotics, I have three Bromeliads which have proved to be very rewarding plants to grow.&lt;br /&gt;Not only do they look good, but they don’t need cosseting or fussing over and despite my initial reservations, they’ve proved to be very hardy indeed.&lt;br /&gt;I’ve already written a blog about one of them, Puya Alpestris, so here’s another one Bilbergia Nutans or Queens Tears.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;B.Nutans is an epiphytic Bromeliad originally from South America.&lt;br /&gt;An evergreen, it grows as a neat clump made up of several vaguely urn shaped rosettes.&lt;br /&gt;The rosettes collect water and organic matter which in turn provides the plant with moisture and nutrition.&lt;br /&gt;The leaves on my plant, which is growing in a pot, are 12 to 18 inches long, very slender and they're armed with tiny, very sharp teeth along the leaf edges.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;New rosettes grow each year and usually flower anytime between very late May and mid June the following year.&lt;br /&gt;The flowers, growing from the centre of the urn, are covered by a pink sheath or bract.&lt;br /&gt;The bracts open and the flowers emerge, these have green petals edged with blue.&lt;br /&gt;It's a strange colour combination, some might say weird but in their own way rather lovely looking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;I really don't do a lot by way of cultivation to B.Nutans, this is because it grows very well without any interference from me.&lt;br /&gt;(Remember, no cosseting or fussing.)&lt;br /&gt;In fact I'm afraid I might do more harm than good if I mess about with it.&lt;br /&gt;So, apart from the very occasional watering with a weak mixture of Phostrogen fertilizer and during prolonged dry weather a sprinkling of rainwater from the watering can, I leave it alone.&lt;br /&gt;(Use rain water for preference, or tap water that's been boiled and allowed to cool.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;For repotting, I used a free draining mix of coir, Perlite, charcoal pieces and small bark chips to which I added a dash of soilless compost.&lt;br /&gt;You can also use soil based composts like John Innes but again it must be very well drained. &lt;p&gt;I normally leave the pot in an open, very lightly shaded spot, on occasions I do give it some late afternoon sun which doesn't do any harm but avoid placing it in strong sunlight.&lt;br /&gt;B.Nutans, spends the Winter under an open sided cloche that I put up every year to give some protection from excess rain but not frost.&lt;br /&gt;So far, B.Nutans proved to be hardy down to -10c.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Propagation is by division.&lt;br /&gt;Mature offsets are carefully cut off after growth has started in the spring,the cuts should be dusted with fungicide.&lt;br /&gt;The offsets are then planted in a loose well drained compost.&lt;br /&gt;Bark chips, coir, Perlite together with charcoal pieces are all good.&lt;br /&gt;Place the offsets in a warm spot, roots should form in a few weeks.&lt;br /&gt;A light misting with rainwater is beneficial but try to avoid getting the compost too wet. ( Secretly, I put mine out if its showery, it works wonders.) Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; B.Nutans is one of the best exotics I've bought, I'd recommend it to anyone.&lt;br /&gt;It's easy to grow, not troubled by pests and it also makes a pretty good housplant. &lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-2006354506706607867?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/2006354506706607867/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=2006354506706607867' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/2006354506706607867'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/2006354506706607867'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/04/bilbergia-nutans-queens-tears-hardy.html' title='Bilbergia Nutans (Queens Tears)  another hardy Bromeliad'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rn47XClMbyI/AAAAAAAAAEM/d0m8bB2CooM/s72-c/Picture+012.bmp' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-4902867561666480651</id><published>2007-03-16T12:08:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-04T10:41:08.350+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Cordyline Australis. How to grow a multi trunked specimen.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rk7RWGTDwCI/AAAAAAAAAC0/gagmtDuVoxY/s1600-h/exotics1+008.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066216808416264226" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="C.Australis" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rk7RWGTDwCI/AAAAAAAAAC0/gagmtDuVoxY/s200/exotics1+008.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;On my travels around Birmingham and the Black Country, I’ve come across several multi trunked specimens of Cordyline Australis.&lt;br /&gt;I’ve had a closer look at a couple of these C.A’s to see whether the multi trunks are natural or whether they’re the result of the “Hand of Man”.&lt;br /&gt;Although I’m no expert, I’ve come to the conclusion that they’re either a quirk of nature or they’re the result of damage to the growing point at some time in their life, possibly from frost.&lt;br /&gt;However they were formed, I rather like them, so I decided to grow one for myself.&lt;br /&gt;So, if you fancy a C.Australis with three or four trunks read on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is to buy your plant.&lt;br /&gt;It doesn’t need to be huge, a small one with an inch or two of trunk is fine.&lt;br /&gt;The technique I used is a variation of one known as stooling and it’s very easy, it just takes courage.&lt;br /&gt;(People of a nervous disposition should get someone to do it for them.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now take a pair of secateurs and cut straight through the stem leaving about an inch or so intact. (See Photo)&lt;br /&gt;Dust the cut with Sulpher and that’s it.&lt;br /&gt;Although this can be done at anytime, its best done in the spring as this will give you several months of growth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;New buds will form around the top of the stem and this is the time to decide how many trunks you want, three or four look good.&lt;br /&gt;Try to pick good strong buds which are evenly spaced around the stem then remove any that you don’t need.&lt;br /&gt;Grow on in a pot, feeding heavily with high nitrogen fertilizer during the growing season.&lt;br /&gt;When large enough, plant it out and be the envy of your friends. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-4902867561666480651?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/4902867561666480651/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=4902867561666480651' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/4902867561666480651'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/4902867561666480651'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/03/cordyline-australis-how-to-grow-multi.html' title='Cordyline Australis. How to grow a multi trunked specimen.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rk7RWGTDwCI/AAAAAAAAAC0/gagmtDuVoxY/s72-c/exotics1+008.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-1746644925710605266</id><published>2007-02-21T12:15:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-04T10:42:45.572+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Hedychiums. A Touch of the Tropics.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rk7SAWTDwDI/AAAAAAAAAC8/XA-dsjWficg/s1600-h/exotics1+003.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066217534265737266" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="H.Flavescens" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rk7SAWTDwDI/AAAAAAAAAC8/XA-dsjWficg/s200/exotics1+003.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;With their spidery looking flowers and a perfume which can vary from non existent to positively heady, Hedychiums are an ideal choice for a hot tropical looking border.&lt;br /&gt;My own small collection, which are all planted out in the garden consists of H.Chrysoleucum, H.Coccineum “Tara”, H.Densiflorum “Assam Orange”, H.Flavescens, H.Forrestii and H.Spicatum.&lt;br /&gt;Of these, H.c. “Tara”, H.d. “Assam Orange” and H.Flavescens have all done well and flower regularly.&lt;br /&gt;H.Chrysoleucum, H.Forrestii and H.Spicatum also grow well but have never flowered for me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This reluctance of some species to flower, is I believe down to two factors.&lt;br /&gt;First, Hedychiums need a longer growing season than our climate affords them.&lt;br /&gt;(In warmer areas of the country where the growing season is longer, I'd expect most if not all of the species I grow to flower successfully.)&lt;br /&gt;Second, in "cold" gardens like mine, growth tends to be very slow, only speeding up when the temperature rises above 68f.&lt;br /&gt;It's usually late May early June before any significant growth can be seen, then everything happens in a rush. (Unless we have a cold snap of course, then everything grinds to a halt.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to extend the growing season, is to grow the plants in pot's and start them off in a warm, well lit room in the house.&lt;br /&gt;When all danger of frost has gone, they can be pot planted in the garden.&lt;br /&gt;If the plants still do not flower, lift the pots and bring them back into warmth and good light and continue to grow them on.&lt;br /&gt;This should be done before the first frosts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;i&gt;An Observation.&lt;/i&gt; &lt;p&gt;Before I start the next section, there's something I'd like to point out.&lt;br /&gt;Many Hedychiums are very vigorous growers and when well grown, the rhizomes, which usually grow laterally will spread very rapidly.&lt;br /&gt;When planted out in a small area, this can pose problems when the time comes to lift them.&lt;br /&gt;Trying to untangle the rhizomes from the roots of adjacent plants is no joke and can cause a lot of damage if not done carefully so be warned.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting Out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing Hedychiums in the garden couldn't be easier.&lt;br /&gt;Sun to light shade suits them best, soil should be well cultivated, well drained and enriched with plenty of well rotted organic matter.&lt;br /&gt;Hedychiums are gross feeders and they love plenty of moisture when in growth, so keep them well fed and watered.&lt;br /&gt;I should point out, that the rhizomes grow very close to the soil surface, almost sitting on top of it at times, so there's no need to plant them too deep a couple of inches is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Overwintering&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to overwintering Hedychiums in the ground, you have two choices, either leave them in the ground and mulch them or lift and store them.&lt;br /&gt;Whichever way you choose, allow the top growth to die down and then remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you're leaving them in the ground, the rhizomes should be covered with a thick mulch of organic material.&lt;br /&gt;I use well rotted horse manure but bark chips, straw, even a thick layer of old newspapers will help keep the winter at bay.&lt;br /&gt;To keep excess water out the mulch can be covered with a cloche or with an old bin bag, which has been pegged down to stop it blowing away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second way, is to lift the rhizomes, remove the soil and any dead roots and store them in a cool frost free area.&lt;br /&gt;In areas where they get deep frosts which really penetrate the soil, this second method is probably the only way to bring them through the Winter successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hedychiums, also make good pot plants, with the scented ones being excellent.&lt;br /&gt;H.Gardnerianum, will fill a sunny conservatory with the most glorious perfume.&lt;br /&gt;A rich, well drained compost is best, with plenty of water and fertilizer when growing well.&lt;br /&gt;Repotting or replacing the top layer of compost every year is beneficial but try to keep root disturbance to a minimum.&lt;br /&gt;Plants should be kept on the dry side when dormant or when growth is slow. Overwatering, can lead to root and rhizome rots and the loss of the plant so please be carefull, don't do my trick "It looks a little dry, so I'll give it a drop more." it kills them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Division&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;The quickest way to propagate Hedychiums is by division.&lt;br /&gt;Lift the rhizomes in Spring and clean off the old soil.&lt;br /&gt;Cut away and discard any areas that are rotting and dust the cuts with fungicide.&lt;br /&gt;Try to get two or three shoots on each division and make clean cuts with a sharp knife or secateurs, dust cuts with fungicide.&lt;br /&gt;All you do then, is pot them up and put them in a warm well lit area.&lt;br /&gt;Keep them on the dry side until new growth starts and then water very modestly until in full growth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;From Seed&lt;/div&gt;Growing Hedychiums from seed is easy and an excellent way to try out new species.&lt;br /&gt;The seed should first be given a hot/warm water soak.&lt;br /&gt;Place the seed in a container, then boil some water.&lt;br /&gt;Once boiled, remove the water from the heat and allow to cool for a few minutes.&lt;br /&gt;Pour the water over the seeds and place the container in a warm airing cupboard or somewhere similar.&lt;br /&gt;After 24hrs, plant the seed in pots in a well drained compost.&lt;br /&gt;Germination takes about 4/6 weeks depending on how warm you can keep them.&lt;br /&gt;I plant mine in late Spring early Summer and I put the pots in a small unheated plastic propagator.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the seeds have germinated, water modestly, give weak solutions of fertilizer and if your growing them indoors look out for Red Spider Mite they love them.&lt;br /&gt;Try to keep the young plants growing for as long as possible but if they show signs of going dormant then stop watering immediately and keep them in a cool area until next season. Posted by:  Mike. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; Grown outdoors, I've had little trouble with pests or diseases, although the odd slug, will have a  nibble at the new shoots occasionaly.&lt;br /&gt;Growing them indoors, is at least for me a constant battle against Red Spider Mite.&lt;br /&gt;I normally mist the leaves, which provides a temporary respite but I have in the past used Provado which seems to work o.k. &lt;br /&gt;That's it, the lot. Good Growing!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-1746644925710605266?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/1746644925710605266'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/1746644925710605266'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/02/hedychiums-touch-of-tropics.html' title='Hedychiums. A Touch of the Tropics.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Rk7SAWTDwDI/AAAAAAAAAC8/XA-dsjWficg/s72-c/exotics1+003.jpg' height='72' width='72'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-2181492364194597152</id><published>2007-02-09T13:46:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-06T11:53:16.888+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Chamaerops Humilis &amp; C.Humilis v cerifera. The Mediterranean fan palms.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RdQ8q6uss9I/AAAAAAAAACc/EnfmmJGzkGg/s1600-h/mikes+exotics+012.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031713391696982994" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Chamaerops humilis v cerifera." src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RdQ8q6uss9I/AAAAAAAAACc/EnfmmJGzkGg/s200/mikes+exotics+012.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Like T.Fortunei, C.Humilis has been grown in this country for many years.&lt;br /&gt;Despite being popular, it never seems to have caught the imagination of palm growers in the same way that T.Fortunei has.&lt;br /&gt;I’ve a sneaky feeling, this is due to the fact that although C,Humilis is a very variable palm, it’s normally seen in its multi trunked clumping form.&lt;br /&gt;Sadly, with the possible exception of Sabal Minor and Rhapidophyllum Hystrix, which are popular because of their hardiness, clump forming palms just don’t seem to cut the mustard with palm fans.&lt;br /&gt;This I think is a great pity because planted in a suitable position and given some room to develop; C.Humilis is a magnificent garden palm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In recent years, C.Humilis has been joined by a little brother, which despite being another clumping palm is growing in popularity.&lt;br /&gt;C.h. v cerifera is its name and as soon as you see one, the reason for its growing number of admirers becomes clear. Blue leaves!&lt;br /&gt;If there’s one thing that a palm enthusiast likes as much as, if not more than, a single trunk palm, it's a palm with blue leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even more recently, another form of C.Humilis has been found, this time called C.h.v volcano.&lt;br /&gt;Although I don't grow this palm, those that I've seen for sale have all been of the multi trunked clumping type.&lt;br /&gt;The leaves on C.h. v volcano, seem to be smaller, stiffer and more upright than those of the "normal" C.Humilis.&lt;br /&gt;This, gives the palm a much "tighter" effect, in some I've seen, almost a ball shape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;All these palms are native to the Mediterranean region including North Africa.&lt;br /&gt;C.Humilis has the widest distribution, being common throughout the Western Mediterranean.&lt;br /&gt;C.h. v cerifera, comes from high up in the Atlas Mountains where it's subjected to snow and frost, as is C.humilis on occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting out.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;For my way of planting out palms, see my blog: &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html" target="'_blank"&gt;palms!!! planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;All Chamaerops make good pot/tub plants but for me, the slower growth of C.h.cerifera makes it the best of the lot.&lt;br /&gt;C.humilis is o.k. for a few years but as it grows ever larger, moving and especially repotting it can be a bit of a problem.&lt;br /&gt;Also, don't forget that these palms grow out, as much as up and C.humilis can become very top heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;For potting, I use a well drained mix of J.I.no 3, well rotted manure, charcoal pieces and dust, gravel/perlite and long life fertilizer granules.&lt;br /&gt;Err on the side of fast drainage, remember, stagnant water hanging about the roots provides ideal conditions for root rots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;General tips.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;i style="COLOR: #8b4513"&gt;Siting:&lt;/i&gt; Although I've read that Chamaerops do well grown in shade, mine are planted in full Sun.&lt;br /&gt;The reason for this, is that when I've seen them growing in the wild, they've always been growing in open, sunny situations and I see no reason to plant mine differently. &lt;p&gt;&lt;i style="COLOR: #8b4513"&gt;Problems:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp; I've never had any trouble with insect pests, not even Red Spider Mite or from my resident population of Vine Weevils.&lt;br /&gt;I've found that Chamaerops generaly are pretty weatherproof palms.&lt;br /&gt;Mine have been battered by winds, snowed on and frozen and they've come through it all admirably.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is one problem though, freezing north and easterly winds.&lt;br /&gt;These can burn the tips of the leaves causing them to turn brown and they can also encourage fungal growth, which usually take the form of yellow edged rusty brown spots.&lt;br /&gt;You can protect your palm somewhat, by planting it in a sheltered situation, by covering it with fleece (tricky when larger) or by spraying with a fungicide.&lt;br /&gt;Personaly, I don't bother, I'm happy with my palms, they're growing well and they look good to me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i style="COLOR: #8b4513"&gt;Fertilizing:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;Although many plants are happy with a balanced fertilizer, palms have special requirements.&lt;br /&gt;They tend to suffer from a shortage of magnesium and certain trace elements.&lt;br /&gt;If your new to palm growing, I'd suggest that you read the article here:&amp;nbsp; &lt;a href="http://www.hardypalms.co.uk/Fertilising.html" target="_blank"&gt;Fertilizing palms by N.Kembrey.&lt;/a&gt; and use a "palm special" fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;Another company which sells suitable fertilizer can be found here: &lt;a href="http://www.thepalmcentre.co.uk/" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.thepalmcentre.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;i style="COLOR: #8b4513"&gt;Growing from seed:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;If you search the internet, you'll find dozens of articles and tips on germinating palm seed.&lt;br /&gt;Here's a good one:&amp;nbsp; &lt;a href="http://www.hardypalms.co.uk/Germinating.html" target="_blank"&gt;Germinating and growing palms from seed. by N.Kembery.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-2181492364194597152?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/2181492364194597152/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=2181492364194597152' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/2181492364194597152'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/2181492364194597152'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/02/chamaerops-humilis-chumilis-v-cerifera.html' title='Chamaerops Humilis &amp; C.Humilis v cerifera. The Mediterranean fan palms.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RdQ8q6uss9I/AAAAAAAAACc/EnfmmJGzkGg/s72-c/mikes+exotics+012.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-3549975087937657202</id><published>2007-01-25T10:59:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:59:47.389+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Colocasia &amp; Xanthosoma. Elephants Ears. (  Part 2. )</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RcB-drSnLiI/AAAAAAAAACE/CLPJOaqOgXg/s1600-h/mikesexotics+002.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5026156232447569442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Xanthosoma violaceum or Blue Taro,Colocasia Esculenta or Dasheen,C.Esculenta or Eddo." src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RcB-drSnLiI/AAAAAAAAACE/CLPJOaqOgXg/s200/mikesexotics+002.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;In this, the second part of my “Elephants Ears” blog, I’ll explain how you can “grow your own” from corms available at many stores selling tropical foods.&lt;br /&gt;(The best stores to try are Asian, Caribbean and Oriental.)&lt;br /&gt;This is an inexspensive way of buying them if you just want to try your hand at growing them, or if you want to fill your garden with them without spending a fortune.&lt;br /&gt;The corms in the picture cost me £3.50 the lot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The varieties featured here, are just the plain common or garden type that you can buy from most shops.&lt;br /&gt;However, depending on where the corms have been grown, you could end up with a novelty, its pot luck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Buying the corms.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;The corms featured in the picture, are as follows, from L to R.&lt;br /&gt;Xanthasoma Violaceum "Blue Taro,"(X.Sagittifolium the true “Elephants Ears” has a white/cream or sometimes pale pink corm.) These are also called “Cocoyam.”&lt;br /&gt;Next is Colocasia Esculenta v esculenta also called “Dasheen.”&lt;br /&gt;The small corms are Colocasia Esculenta v antiquorum also called “Eddos.”&lt;br /&gt;Examine the corms closely; only buy those that are firm and solid.&lt;br /&gt;Reject any that have cuts or abrasions or show signs of mold, fungal growth or slime.&lt;br /&gt;Finally, corms are sometimes sold with the growing point trimmed off.&lt;br /&gt;This is pretty common with Dasheen, so try to buy the corms intact.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Getting them started.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you’ve bought your corms, put them into pots only slightly larger than the corm itself and with the growing tip level or just above the surface&lt;br /&gt;Any compost will do for this as it’s only a temporary home.&lt;br /&gt;One important point, the compost must not be wet, just and only just moist.&lt;br /&gt;The reason for this is that dormant corms are susceptible to rotting and wet compost encourages this.&lt;br /&gt;Keep compost on the dry side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;We now come to the tricky bit, getting the corms to sprout.&lt;br /&gt;The secret of achieving this is heat, 70f minimum for 24hrs a day until signs of growth appear.&lt;br /&gt;(Trying to get these to sprout is the only time I’ve ever felt the need for a propagator.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, with some of the corms being quite large, once potted up you wouldn’t get many in a standard sized propagator.)&lt;br /&gt;The next best thing is a warm airing cupboard and this is where I started mine.&lt;br /&gt;Before you put them in the propagator or cupboard, give the surface of the pots a light spray with  fungicide, this should give some protection against the possibility of fungal growth.&lt;br /&gt;Check the pots regularly to see that all is well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the corms have sprouted, leave them in the propagator or cupboard until the leaves are 5/6ins tall.&lt;br /&gt;Once they've reached this stage of growth, take the pots out and put them in a warm spot in bright filtered light.&lt;br /&gt;The plants will now tolerate a slightly lower temperature, (min.65f will keep them just ticking over, watch the watering.) however, for optimum growth, the more heat you can give the better.&lt;br /&gt;Once all danger of frost has gone, you have two choices.&lt;br /&gt;Planting them out in the garden or growing them on in pots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Colocasia, Xanthasoma and Alocasia can all be planted out in the open garden and very good they look too.&lt;br /&gt;Sun or light shade seems to suit them best.&lt;br /&gt;The planting area, is best prepared a week or two prior to planting out.&lt;br /&gt;It should be well drained and enriched with plenty of well rotted manure or compost.&lt;br /&gt;After planting and watering, the corms will benefit from a good mulch of organic material.&lt;br /&gt;Water and fertilize freely and don't let the soil dry out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Overwintering.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can overwinter the corms in the ground or dig them up and store them.&lt;br /&gt;If you want to leave them in the ground, allow the frost to kill the top growth and then cut it off.&lt;br /&gt;Put a heavy, dry mulch over the corms and cover this with either a cloche or a plastic sheet to keep the corms dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although the corms keep well and they're hardy with a mulch, the problems come with regrowth the following Spring.&lt;br /&gt;Sad to say, in my bit of the W.Midlands at least, it just isn't hot enough in early Spring/Summer to promote regrowth, so I abandoned this idea.&lt;br /&gt;( I dug some corms up in late July the one year and they were in excellent condition.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, there was no sign of the buds opening and putting on growth. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;To store the corms, cut off the old leaves, dig up the corms and wash and dry them.&lt;br /&gt;Discard any that show signs of damage or fungal growth, dust with fungicide and store in a cool, frost free area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Growing in pots.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;For growing in pots, you need a rich, well drained compost.&lt;br /&gt;I made mine up from a mixture of J.I.no3, well rotted manure, small bark chips, charcoal pieces and dust and gravel.&lt;br /&gt;I added long life fertilizer granules to the mix and used Phostrogen as a supplementery fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;Keep well watered when in full growth.&lt;br /&gt;( C.Esculenta "Dasheen" can be grown as a marginal plant or it can be stood in a tray full of water during the Summer. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Over wintering in pots.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;To keep these as houseplants during the Winter, you'll need to give them at least 65f plus just to keep them ticking over.&lt;br /&gt;So, if you like your house hot during the Winter, you shouldn't have too many problems.&lt;br /&gt;One thing to watch is the watering, only keep them just moist otherwise they might fall prey to corm or root rots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other way to store them, is to leave them in their pots, cut off the top growth, allow the pot to dry out and then store in a cool but frost free place.  Posted by:  Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;If I can be of any further help, e.mail me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-3549975087937657202?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/3549975087937657202/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=3549975087937657202' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/3549975087937657202'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/3549975087937657202'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/colocasia-xanthasoma-elephants-ears.html' title='Colocasia &amp; Xanthosoma. Elephants Ears. (  Part 2. )'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RcB-drSnLiI/AAAAAAAAACE/CLPJOaqOgXg/s72-c/mikesexotics+002.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-4780784429339452401</id><published>2007-01-19T10:57:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-06T11:57:18.676+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Sauromatum Venosum, another "Voodoo Lily"</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RbH_9v7KEVI/AAAAAAAAABs/ua8ruQ8VpeM/s1600-h/sauromatum+002.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5022076495796506962" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Sauromatum Venosum. another voodoo lily." src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RbH_9v7KEVI/AAAAAAAAABs/ua8ruQ8VpeM/s200/sauromatum+002.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;p&gt;At this time of year, the summer flowering bulbs, corms and tubers are beginning to appear on the shelves of garden centres and shops everwhere.&lt;br /&gt;Amongst the usual crop of Cannas, Dahlias and Gladioli etc. you might well come across a little gem like this one.&lt;br /&gt;Sauromatum Venosum, the Voodoo Lily or Monarch of the East. ( A much nicer name. )&lt;br /&gt;This plant, has two claims to fame.&lt;br /&gt;The first, is its ability to grow and flower without soil or water, simply place it on a dish on a warm windowsill then stand back and watch it grow.&lt;br /&gt;The second  is the atrocious odour given off when the plant is in flower, a trait it shares with that other "Voodoo Lily" Dracunculas Vulgaris.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although in nature it grows in sub tropical/tropical climates, it's proved to be very hardy in my garden flowering every year if given the right conditions.&lt;br /&gt;You can take it from me, that a few corms planted together look and smell very impressive when in flower.&lt;br /&gt;The usually solitary leaf, is also pretty large considering the small size of some corms.&lt;br /&gt;So, if your looking for something a bit different or something to grow as a novelty, give "The Monarch of the East" a try.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting Out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cultivation is easy.&lt;br /&gt;Planted deep, in a well drained soil enriched with plenty of well rotted manure and some bonemeal if you wish will suit it fine.&lt;br /&gt;If a warm spot against a west or south facing wall or fence can be found, then so much the better.&lt;br /&gt;I've tried growing S.Venosum in shade but in my garden they've had a tendency to fade away after two or three years.&lt;br /&gt;The best results, have come from corms planted in sunny areas, with very light shade being passable.&lt;br /&gt;In very cold areas, a good mulch will help it along and give extra protection during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing S.Venosum in pots poses no real problems.&lt;br /&gt;Deep clay pots of the "Long Tom" variety are the best.&lt;br /&gt;I use a well drained compost made up of J.I.no2/3, well rotted manure, charcoal pieces and dust and gravel or Perlite.&lt;br /&gt;I add long life fertilizer granules and use Phostrogen as a supplementary fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;Don't water the pot until you see signs of growth, then only moisten the soil.&lt;br /&gt;As growth picks up, increase the watering and begin to use supplementary fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;Move the pot into good light and continue watering and feeding.&lt;br /&gt;Once the flower has died down, the leaf will emerge and growth will continue.&lt;br /&gt;When the leaf turns yellow and growth stops, stop all watering.&lt;br /&gt;Allow the pot to dry out and store in a cool frost free place.  Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-4780784429339452401?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/4780784429339452401/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=4780784429339452401' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/4780784429339452401'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/4780784429339452401'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/sauromatum-venosum-another-voodoo-lily.html' title='Sauromatum Venosum, another &quot;Voodoo Lily&quot;'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RbH_9v7KEVI/AAAAAAAAABs/ua8ruQ8VpeM/s72-c/sauromatum+002.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-3552959566783018520</id><published>2007-01-08T12:56:00.001+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-06T11:58:52.823+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Alocasia Macrorrhiza. The Elephants Ears. ( Part 1 )</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Introduction&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RcMLJDyFJ9I/AAAAAAAAACQ/4LSt0S13PcY/s1600-h/mikes+003.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5026873859337693138" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Alocasia Macrorrhiza. Elephants Ears. " src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RcMLJDyFJ9I/AAAAAAAAACQ/4LSt0S13PcY/s200/mikes+003.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;p&gt;Originally, I’d intended to lump all the “Elephant Ears,” that is Alocasia, Colocasia and Xanthasoma together in one blog.&lt;br /&gt;However, I found that the differences in over wintering these plants were significant enough to warrant splitting the blog into two parts.&lt;br /&gt;The two parts, are based on notes that I made while growing these fantastic plants.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In this the first part, I concentrate on Alocasia Macrorrhiza.&lt;br /&gt;Like Colocasia and Xanthasoma, A.Macrorrhiza is easy to grow through the warmer months of the summer.&lt;br /&gt;Where it really scores though, is during the winter months, where with a modicum of care it can be successfully grown as a houseplant, all be it a very large one eventually.&lt;br /&gt;(It looks particularly good in a conservatory, where with a palm or two and perhaps an exotic climber it will give a definite "Look of the Tropics.")&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Native to tropical areas of S.E.Asia, A.Macrorrhiza has now spread to other parts of the sub tropical/tropical world.&lt;br /&gt;In ideal conditions, it grows to massive proportions, up to a height of 12ft.plus and with a spread of up to 6/8ft.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, here in the U.K. we can only dream about growing plants this size, never the less it's still one of, if not the largest perennials we're ever likely to grow.&lt;br /&gt;Truly an imposing plant in every sense of the word.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;For tips on growing A.Macrorrhiza either in a pot or in the ground, follow this link to Part 2 of my blog :&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/colocasia-xanthasoma-elephants-ears.html" target="-blank"&gt; colocasia,xanthosoma, elephants ears.(Part 2)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here, are a couple of other tips.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;i&gt;Tip 1&lt;/i&gt; If you prefer to grow your "Elephants Ears" in pots, then I'd recommend that you stick to plain, unglazed crock ( clay ) pots.&lt;br /&gt;Although these plants are moisture lovers, they do not like waterlogging.&lt;br /&gt;Plastic pots, even with fast drainage, tend to hold lots of excess moisture.&lt;br /&gt;This leads to the soil going "sour" and can lead to root and corm rots.&lt;br /&gt;( Unglazed clay pots "breath" plastic and glazed clay pots, do not. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;i&gt;Tip 2&lt;/i&gt; If you want to grow your Alocasia in the garden but still overwinter it indoors, the easiest way to do it is to plant the pot.&lt;br /&gt;Pick the place where you want your plant to go, then dig a hole to the same depth as the pot.&lt;br /&gt;Make sure the drainage at the bottom of the hole is o.k.&lt;br /&gt;Plant the pot, with the plant in it of course and put a mulch around the pot to hide the pot edge and keep the area moist.&lt;br /&gt;Continue watering and feeding.&lt;br /&gt;At the end of the Summer, lift the lot out of the ground.&lt;br /&gt;Wash and clean the outside of the pot, trim off any roots that have grown through the drainage hole and bring the lot indoors ready to overwinter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Overwintering indoors.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first time I tried to overwinter A.Macrorrhiza, it ended when the whole plant collapsed in a heap.&lt;br /&gt;Looking at the remains, it was clear that a different approach was needed, so, in the Spring I bought another small plant tried again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first of my changes, involved repotting the plant.&lt;br /&gt;I discarded the plastic pot that it had come in and washed much of the old soil from around the roots.&lt;br /&gt;I then repotted it using my own compost mixture into a clay pot.&lt;br /&gt;After an initial sulk, it began to grow slowly through the Summer.&lt;br /&gt;I watered it modestly and used a weak solution of Phostrogen to help things along.&lt;br /&gt;At the end of the Summer, I brought it indoors and put it in an unheated South facing room and this is where it spent its first and subsequent Winters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The second of the changes I made was in the watering regime.&lt;br /&gt;First, I stopped watering the pot from the top and switched to watering from below.&lt;br /&gt;Next, was the amount of water.&lt;br /&gt;At my first attempt, I'd kept the compost fairly moist, at times, not far of wet and this is where I made my big mistake.&lt;br /&gt;Although my A.Macrorrhiza was growing very, very, slowly, it simply did not need the amount of water that I'd given it.&lt;br /&gt;As a result of this, the roots rotted, followed very rapidly by the rest of it.&lt;br /&gt;A change to a much drier watering regime, including letting the pot dry out for a short period put things right and I had no more problems with overwintering my plant.&lt;br /&gt;( Apart from Red Spider Mite.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, my A.Macrorrhiza met its end during Feb 2000 after three nights of minus 6c of frost.&lt;br /&gt;At its end, it was in a 14in. clay pot, the plant alone stood 5ft high and had a spread of 4ft.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, it weighed a ton and I couldn't even lift the thing let alone move it indoors.&lt;br /&gt;I gave it a covering of fleece and hoped for the best.&lt;br /&gt;It actually stood a couple of minus 2s' quite well but sadly, the lower temperatures finally did for it. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note :&lt;/i&gt; There's no doubt in my mind, that to overwinter A.Macrorrhiza successfully, you need to cut the watering drastically.&lt;br /&gt;I stood the pot in a saucer and filled the saucer once a month and that was it.&lt;br /&gt;In its third year, in early December, I had two flower spathes, both of which opened and lasted several days.&lt;br /&gt;I took the picture used in this blog, in the tropical house of Birmingham Botanical Gardens.&lt;br /&gt;I would have liked to have used a picture of the plant that I grew, but I had no plans to do a blog and in fact, I didn't know one end of a computer from the other.&lt;br /&gt;The picture I'm afraid, went in one of my periodic clearouts.&lt;br /&gt;So, until I get another one, or I can get some seed, I'm afraid that this photo will have to do.  Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-3552959566783018520?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/3552959566783018520/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=3552959566783018520' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/3552959566783018520'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/3552959566783018520'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/making-raised-border.html' title='Alocasia Macrorrhiza. The Elephants Ears. ( Part 1 )'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/RcMLJDyFJ9I/AAAAAAAAACQ/4LSt0S13PcY/s72-c/mikes+003.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-7122812871189099682</id><published>2007-01-01T11:39:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-06T11:49:25.938+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Making a Gravel Bed.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #8b4513"&gt;A Happy New Year to everyone and Welcome to my first Blog of 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Ray5eP7KESI/AAAAAAAAABI/d3StqmXLkM4/s1600-h/mikesexotics+026.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5020591613933130018" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Making a gravel bed." src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Ray5eP7KESI/AAAAAAAAABI/d3StqmXLkM4/s200/mikesexotics+026.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p style="COLOR: #000000"&gt;If you've read my previous blogs about Puya Alpestris and Aloe Striatula, you'll see that both are planted out in gravel beds.&lt;br /&gt;Originally, I made these beds to provided a home for many of my alpine plants.&lt;br /&gt;As luck would have it, their south facing position and very fast drainage has proved ideal for growing Mediterranean type plants which require these type of conditions.&lt;br /&gt;So, for gardeners who fancy a bit of mind broadening and moderately hard work for the New Year, here's how I made mine. ( It's easy, Honest! ) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;First thing to do, is to pick a site, my beds face almost due south and they're open to all that the weather can throw at them.&lt;br /&gt;If you can pick a south to west facing site, perhaps close to a wall or something that gives a bit of protection from the elements, then this would be even better. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't need much in the way of materials, pea gravel, something to edge the bed with and some well rotted manure. ( optional ) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now for the work.&lt;br /&gt;First, mark out your site and dig out the soil one spit deep, the soil should be placed to one side.&lt;br /&gt;You'll only need a small amount of this soil, so the rest can be spread over the garden.&lt;br /&gt;Thoroughly break up the soil in the bottom of the hole, digging in some of the gravel as you're doing it.&lt;br /&gt;Any clay lumps should be removed and if there's a hard pan, as much of it as possible should be broken up.&lt;br /&gt;You can now put in the edging material making sure its above the soil level.&lt;br /&gt;Next take some of the soil you've put to one side and mix it with the gravel ( and manure if you wish ) at a ratio of 2 parts gravel to 1 part soil.&lt;br /&gt;Fill the hole with the mixture to between 4/6 inches from the top, blending it a little with the soil below.&lt;br /&gt;Finally, blend in some of the pea gravel into the previous layer and top it off with just the pea gravel.&lt;br /&gt;The final layer of gravel should be a minimum of 4ins. deep.&lt;br /&gt;Allow the soil to settle for a couple of weeks before planting up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is a very basic bed that works well on my clay soil but there are as they say, "variations on a theme" so here's a couple or three.&lt;br /&gt;By raising the overall height of the edging, a raised bed proper can be made, this makes it easier for someone less mobile to be able to enjoy gardening.&lt;br /&gt;For super, superfast drainage, builders rubble can be used to replace the bottom soil.&lt;br /&gt;For those with an artistic bent, you can create a mini landscape by part burying various size stones or rocks in the top layer of gravel.&lt;br /&gt;By using small or slow growing xeric plants some very nice effects can be created using this method.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The only fly in the ointment is winter wet and like it or not, there are many xeric plants which have a very low tolerance to getting a soaking at this time of year.&lt;br /&gt;Remember, many of these plants may experience frost in their natural habitat but in this case, winters tend to be dry cold not damp or wet like ours.&lt;br /&gt;Some plants, such A.Striatula and P.Alpestris take it in their stride, others such as members of the Agave clan can be badly affected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Fortunately, its easy to provide some protection from the more inclement weather.&lt;br /&gt;For those who can provide the protection of a wall, then the easiest way to protect the plants is to prop old window frames ( in case anyone asks, complete with the glass ) at an angle against the wall and the front edge of the bed forming a kind of tent structure.&lt;br /&gt;These can be removed for the summer and stored somwhere out of the way.&lt;br /&gt;With beds like mine which are in an exposed position, you have to call on your diy skills.&lt;br /&gt;A hooped frame, ( like plastic greenhouses ) can be made out of the plastic tubing which is used for water overflows. ( toilet, sinks etc. )&lt;br /&gt;This is then covered with clear plastic sheet which is pegged into the ground but leaving a gap at the bottom to allow air to circulate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Although these modifications work, in that they keep the rain off, they can never take the place of the previously mentioned dry winters.&lt;br /&gt;Condensation, especially with the plastic is still likely to pose some problems and only you can decide if its worth while. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-7122812871189099682?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/7122812871189099682/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=7122812871189099682' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/7122812871189099682'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/7122812871189099682'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/making-gravel-bed.html' title='Making a Gravel Bed.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Ray5eP7KESI/AAAAAAAAABI/d3StqmXLkM4/s72-c/mikesexotics+026.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-1784462728394298466</id><published>2006-12-15T11:37:00.009+01:00</published><updated>2008-08-05T10:30:57.163+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Site Map.</title><content type='html'>To access a Blog, click on a link and it will open in a new window.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;MAY 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/winter-20056-summary_14.html" target="_blank"&gt;winter 2005/6 a summary.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/start-of-exotics-year-and-blogs-to.html" target="_blank"&gt;start of the exotics year and blogs to come.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/feature-plant-zantedeschia-aethiopica.html" target="_blank"&gt;feature plant zantedeschia aethiopca.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/puya-alpestris-gem-plant.html" target="_blank"&gt;puya alpestris a gem plant.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/growing-trachycarpus-latisectus.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing trachycarpus latisectus.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;JUNE 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html" target="_blank"&gt;palms!!! planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/feature-plant-dracunculus-vulgaris.html" target="_blank"&gt;feature plant dracunculus vulgaris&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;JULY 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/aloe-striatula-another-gem-plant.html" target="_blank"&gt;aloe striatula another gem plant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/agaves-propagating-from-offsetsrunners.html" target="_blank"&gt;agaves propagating from offsets and runners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/growing-chamaedorea-microspadix-hardy.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing chamaedorea microspadix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/musa-sikkimensisthe-resurgent-banana.html" target="_blank"&gt;musa sikkimensis the resurgent banana.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/growing-cycas-revoluta-sago-palm.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing cycas revoluta.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;AUGUST 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/growing-arisaemas.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing ariseamas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/feature-plant-arisaema-candidissimum.html" target="_blank"&gt;feature plant ariseama candidissimum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/growing-chamaedorea-radicalis.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing chamaeorea radicalis.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;SEPTEMBER 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/09/growing-arums-autumn-wonders.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing arums autumn wonders.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;OCTOBER 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/10/aspidistra-elatior-cast-iron-plant.html" target="_blank"&gt;aspidistra elatior the cast iron plant.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/10/dasylirion-wheeleri-gem-for-xeric.html" target="_blank"&gt;dasylirion wheeleri a gem for the xeric garden&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;NOVEMBER 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/11/dicksonia-antarctica-winter-protection.html" target="_blank"&gt;dicksonia antarctica &amp; d.fibrosa winter protection.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/11/trachycarpus-wagnerianus-wind-beater.html" target="_blank"&gt;trachycarpus wagnerianus the windbeater.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/11/bhutia-eriospatha-by-nigel-kembrey.html" target="_blank"&gt;bhutia eriospatha by nigel kembrey.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;DECEMBER 2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006_12_01_archive.html" target="_blank"&gt;Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;JANUARY 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/making-gravel-bed.html" target="_blank"&gt;making a gravel bed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/making-raised-border.html" target="_blank"&gt;alocasia macrorrhiza. elephants ears. (part 1)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/sauromatum-venosum-another-voodoo-lily.html" target="_blank"&gt;sauromatum venosum, another voodoo lily&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/01/colocasia-xanthasoma-elephants-ears.html" target="_blank"&gt;colocasia,xanthasoma, elephants ears. (part 2)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;FEBRUARY 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/02/chamaerops-humilis-chumilis-v-cerifera.html" target="_blank"&gt;chamaerops humilis &amp;amp; c.humilis v cerifera. mediterranean fan palms.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/02/hedychiums-touch-of-tropics.html" target="_blank"&gt;hedychiums a touch of the tropics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;MARCH 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/03/cordyline-australis-how-to-grow-multi.html" target="_blank"&gt;cordyline australis how to grow a multi trunked specimen.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;APRIL 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/04/bilbergia-nutans-queens-tears-hardy.html" target="_blank"&gt;billbergia nutans (queens tears) another hardy bromeliad &lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;MAY 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/05/growing-agaves-in-pots-and-in-garden.html" target="_blank"&gt;growing agaves in pots and in the garden.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/05/summer-care-for-tree-ferns.html" target="_blank"&gt;summer care for tree ferns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;JUNE 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/06/trachycarpus-fortunii-most-recommended.html" target="_blank"&gt;trachycarpus fortunei the most recommended&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;July 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/07/miscellany-of-tips-bits-n-bobs.html" target="_blank"&gt;a miscellany of tips and bits "n" bobs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;AUGUST 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/08/fascicularia-bicolor-last-of-bromeliads.html" target="_blank"&gt;fascicularia bicolor last of the bromeliads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/08/some-unusual-plants-for-exotic-garden.html" target="_blank"&gt;some unusual plants for the exotic garden&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;SEPTEMBER 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/09/phoenix-canariensis-canary-island-date.html" target="_blank"&gt;phoenix canariensis the canary island date palm.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;OCTOBER 2007&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2007/10/yuccas-supreme-architectural-plants.html" target="_blank"&gt;yuccas! supreme architectural plants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;APRIL 2008&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2008/04/usda-zone-system-explained.html"target="_blank"&gt;usda zone system explained&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;MAY 2008&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2008/05/shrubs-for-exotic-garden.html" target="-blank"&gt;shrubs for the exotic garden.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=1784462728394298466#top"&gt;&amp;lt; Top of page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-1784462728394298466?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/1784462728394298466/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=1784462728394298466' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/1784462728394298466'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/1784462728394298466'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html' title='Site Map.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-2446011443561904295</id><published>2006-11-24T10:43:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:40:38.634+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Butia Eriospatha by Nigel kembrey</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1860/3157/1600/315736/butiaeriospathahabitat.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; CURSOR: pointer" alt="Butia Eriospatha in habitat." src="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1860/3157/200/695435/butiaeriospathahabitat.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Hardy Palms for the UK.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For the last 20 years or so, during our recent warm British winters , several palms from South America have been thriving. The most well known is Butia capitata , a large feather palm which has been growing in Southern France, Italy and the USA for 100 years. In our more recent winters it has thrived in the UK, shrugging off frost and snow. In our climate however, it is fairly slow growing. More recently, Butia yatay has been introduced from Argentina and seems slower than Butia capitata.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It is obvious that provenance plays a part in a palms performance, so last year I went to Southern Brazil to try and resolve some unanswered questions re Butia species, and to see in habitat some of the palms that grow here in our Northern European gardens.&lt;br /&gt;For me, the questions I wanted answered were;&lt;br /&gt;What is the climate REALLY like in Southern Brazil?&lt;br /&gt;Which species of Butia will grow best in the UK.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Our journey was not an easy one, Southern Brazil is not easily accessible nor tourist orientated and it is a long way to travel with 2 connections. We did not know what to expect, South America has something of a reputation, the pictures you see on TV often portray Brazil as a country of burning forests and poverty. In fact we were pleasantly surprised , Southern Brazil is relatively unspoilt with much of the rainforest intact , the towns and cities are very European in feeling, and the people the friendliest and most hospitable I have ever encountered.&lt;br /&gt;Within minutes of arriving in Curitiba we were able to see native palms nearby, and the drive to our hotel near the coast ,whilst conducted in darkness still revealed an amazing number of palms of various species growing wild alongside the road.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The climate is not what we imagined it to be. Contrary to popular belief, the lowland areas where many of the Butia species grow tend to be frost free. The areas along the coast of Southern Brazil do not see severe frosts in winter and remain above freezing. In some places the temperature does not drop below 10C in winter. Much of the lowland Butia capitata habitat where we visited was heavily populated with tropical palms, a sure sign that frosts did not occur.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Our first trip was from the coast where the temperature was hovering around 30C , back up to our point of arrival, Curitiba. This is a large city with a population of over 1 million people , sitting at 1000m above sea level and more than an hour from the coast. As we progressed upwards from the coast the change in climate was considerable. First it was noticeable that at about 400m above sea level the bountiful tropical palms that previously grew everywhere like weeds were suddenly absent.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The vegetation was changing considerably and we began noticing many plants common to Northern Europe growing wild on the edges of the road, together with more conifers. Cloud seemed much more prevalent here , the area often submerged under cloud , with awesome monkey puzzle trees (Araucaria angustifolia) looming above the forest skyline.&lt;br /&gt;Soon we saw our first Butia eriospathas, these were immense Butias with huge trunks and crowns far bigger, greener and more beautiful than the average Butia capitata. Every house seemed to have its own Butia eriospatha in the front garden.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We finally parked the car to inspect some large trees growing wild in the hedgerow. As we stepped out of the car the difference in climate hit us. There was a breeze blowing, it was drizzling with rain and the temperature was COOL. In fact it felt just like a typical English summers day, completely at odds with the climate lower down where Butia capitata was found.&lt;br /&gt;This weather is quite normal for Curitiba in summer, and we discovered that winter is quite cold and wet with temperatures commonly as low as -3C or -4C and can go as low as -6C. All around we could see Dicksonia sellowiana, a tree fern very like Dicksonia antartica and known to be equally as hardy. The evidence of cold was there, brown frost damaged fronds hanging down and the plants flushing with new green fronds.&lt;br /&gt;We had found the biggest and most beautiful Butias we had ever seen and they were growing in a climate similar to our own !&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Having answered one of our initial questions it immediately begged another that we could not answer…..&lt;br /&gt;Why oh why are we not all planting a Butia eriospatha in our gardens like the people on the Brazilian tablelands when our climate is so similar.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Since last year I have grown Butia eriospatha here , the palms have not disappointed me, growing with considerable speed unlike most other Butias. It seems the UK is set to become the second home of Butia eriospatha. Posted by: Nigel Kembrey 20/11/2006&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;  copyright© 2006 Nigel Kembrey&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-2446011443561904295?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/2446011443561904295/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=2446011443561904295' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/2446011443561904295'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/2446011443561904295'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/11/bhutia-eriospatha-by-nigel-kembrey.html' title='Butia Eriospatha by Nigel kembrey'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-5798783105644293117</id><published>2006-11-16T14:00:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:42:41.542+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Trachycarpus Wagnerianus. The wind beater.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1860/3157/1600/478318/exotics.jpg%20015.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Trachycarpus Wagnerianus" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/x/blogger2/1860/3157/200/403827/exotics.jpg%20015.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it's possible for a palm to be called a "Classic", then T.Wagnerianus must be a contender for the title.&lt;br /&gt;Still fairly new to the U.K., "Waggies" have grown in popularity and deservedly so, for this is a great palm, for the garden or a tub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unknown in the wild, its origins are the subject of some debate.&lt;br /&gt;Some authorities, believe that it's a species in it's own right, while others, believe it's simply a variant of T.Fortunei.&lt;br /&gt;Whatever its origins, it's palm worthy of a place in anyone's garden.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes known as the "Miniature Chusan Palm", it grows to some 30ft. high.&lt;br /&gt;The leaves, are small and stiff and when viewed from above, they give the crown of the palm a symmetrical look that's pleasing to the eye.&lt;br /&gt;Or at least, to my eyes!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;As well as being an excellent palm for general use,&lt;br /&gt;it really comes into its own in gardens which are windswept.&lt;br /&gt;As any grower of T.Fortunei will tell you, wind is its great enemy, causing leaves to break and leaf tips to shred, leaving you with a very sad looking palm.&lt;br /&gt;Not one you want to show to your neighbours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;I could spend an age singing the praises of T.Wagnerianus, but I think I'd better sum up before I get too carried away.&lt;br /&gt;Cultivation is easy, a good rich well drained soil in a sunny spot is best.&lt;br /&gt;Initially slow growing, plenty of water and fertilizer during the growing season&lt;br /&gt;will help things along a bit.&lt;br /&gt;I've had no trouble with pests, or diseases.&lt;br /&gt;All in all, this is a great palm, for the garden or a container and for the newcomer or experienced enthusiast. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; For a more detailed look at how I plant my palms, go to my June blog:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html" target="_blank"&gt;Palms!!! Planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-5798783105644293117?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/5798783105644293117/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=5798783105644293117' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5798783105644293117'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/5798783105644293117'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/11/trachycarpus-wagnerianus-wind-beater.html' title='Trachycarpus Wagnerianus. The wind beater.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-116281641790293535</id><published>2006-11-06T13:26:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:44:17.915+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Dicksonia Antarctica &amp; D.Fibrosa. Winter protection.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Ra9afv7KETI/AAAAAAAAABU/1sGz1n-PxDQ/s1600-h/mikesexotics+043.jpg"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5021331611028427058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Dicksonia Antarctica and D.Fibrosa winter protection." src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Ra9afv7KETI/AAAAAAAAABU/1sGz1n-PxDQ/s200/mikesexotics+043.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a recent e.mail, I was asked if I thought D.Fibrosa was suitable for permanent planting out here in the W.Midlands.&lt;br /&gt;Although I’ve never grown this particular tree fern, I know where they do, so I paid a couple of visits to Birmingham Botanical Gardens.&lt;br /&gt;Here, in a small “grove” they grow D.Antarctica, D.Fibrosa and many other hardy ferns.&lt;br /&gt;As a result of these visits, I’ve revised this blog to show how they protect their ferns for the winter.&lt;br /&gt;Looking at the picture of D.Fibrosa, I think it’s pretty self explanatory.&lt;br /&gt;( If you think the method used bears a strong resemblance to protecting bananas and the like, you’d be right. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;The Method&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;The plastic you can see in the photo, is the type of stuff you fix to a wall to support climbing plants. ( Plastic trellis. )&lt;br /&gt;It needs to be of a width, wide enough to surround the fern trunk leaving a gap of some 3 to 4ins. between the trunk and the trellis.&lt;br /&gt;Idealy, it should be at least as tall as the trunk.&lt;br /&gt;Starting at the bottom, the edges of the trellis are wired together say a foot or two up.&lt;br /&gt;This is then packed with straw and the process repeated until the top is reached.&lt;br /&gt;Finaly, the top is packed with straw to protect the crown and topped of with something to keep excess rain out.&lt;br /&gt;They used the plastic saucers that you stand plant pots in.&lt;br /&gt;The bamboo wraparound that you can see in the picture is optional and unless you live in an extremely cold area, shouldn't be necessary.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compared to this way of protecting tree ferns, my way of doing it is positively "Minimalist."&lt;br /&gt;I've never felt the need to protect the trunk on my D.Antarctica, so all I do is protect the crown.&lt;br /&gt;This is simply a matter of stuffing straw or dry newspaper into the top until it's full.&lt;br /&gt;If I'm using newspaper, I change it if it gets wet, that way, the crown stays nice and dry and ice doesn't form in the top.&lt;br /&gt;That my friends, is all there is to it.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Posted by:&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-116281641790293535?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/116281641790293535/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=116281641790293535' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/116281641790293535'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/116281641790293535'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/11/dicksonia-antarctica-winter-protection.html' title='Dicksonia Antarctica &amp; D.Fibrosa. Winter protection.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_dNqhTMMCyHg/Ra9afv7KETI/AAAAAAAAABU/1sGz1n-PxDQ/s72-c/mikesexotics+043.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-116203076284323409</id><published>2006-10-28T11:03:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:46:28.732+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Dasylirion Wheeleri. A gem for the xeric garden.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexoyics.jpeg%20015.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Dasylirion Wheeleri" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexoyics.jpeg%20015.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you've a Mediterranean style garden, and you're looking for a plant that's a little bit different, then give Dasylirion Wheeleri a try.&lt;br /&gt;It's been five years or so since I bought my plant and and it's turned out to be an excellent addition to the garden.&lt;br /&gt;I've been so impressed with this plant, that, along with D.Texanum, I've grown more of them from seed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Native to the South Western States of the U.S.A. and Mexico, Dasylirion Wheeleri, is one of those plants that has proved to be very useful to man.&lt;br /&gt;It's been used for everything, from cattle feed to making baskets and the brewing of some fearsome sounding liquor called "Sotol", even the dried flower stems have been used as fence poles and for roofing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;D.Wheeleri, is another one of those "Looks like a pineapple top plants" only the leaves, rather than being short stubby things are very slender and anything up to four feet long.&lt;br /&gt;They curve back very gracefully giving the whole plant a symmetrical look, they're also armed with a row of vicious spines along the leaf edges.&lt;br /&gt;The leaf tips are peculiar, they tend to go brown and curl around in the shape of a piglets tail.&lt;br /&gt;This doesn't mean there's something wrong with the plant, it's just something it does naturaly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;In nature, Dasylirion grow on sunny well drained hillsides both on Limestone and Granite formations.&lt;br /&gt;They're not fussy about soil type, but excellent drainage is a must.&lt;br /&gt;Mine grows in a sunny, well drained, south facing scree bed and since I planted it out some four years ago, it's stood temperatures down to -10c. without any protection.&lt;br /&gt;Dasylirion, are best planted out in Spring, when all danger of frost has gone.&lt;br /&gt;Water well until the plant is well established, don't use high nitrogen fertilizer, as this can lead to top growth at the expense of roots and it's root growth you need initially.&lt;br /&gt;Once established, it's up to you how you look after it.&lt;br /&gt;So, you can either leave it to nature and let it grow at its own pace, or you can speed things up a bit, by watering well during dry periods and feeding with high nitrogen fertilizer. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; I'm a great fan of D.Wheeleri and D.Texanum, they're easy to grow very drought tolerant, in fact they'll put up with almost anything except poor drainage.&lt;br /&gt;These though are plants which need room, give them some space.&lt;br /&gt;One word of warning, think twice about growing them if you have young children or boisterous pets, the spines can inflict a good deal of damage to little fingers. &lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-116203076284323409?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/116203076284323409/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=116203076284323409' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/116203076284323409'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/116203076284323409'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/10/dasylirion-wheeleri-gem-for-xeric.html' title='Dasylirion Wheeleri. A gem for the xeric garden.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-116064812344310175</id><published>2006-10-12T11:09:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:47:27.197+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Aspidistra Elatior. The Cast Iron Plant.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics.jpeg%20018.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Aspidistra Elatior" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics.jpeg%20018.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's one plant which is synonymous with the Victorian era, then it must be Aspidistra Elatior.&lt;br /&gt;At the height of its popularity, it was said that virtually every house in the land had one of these growing somewhere in a room or hallway.&lt;br /&gt;At the end of the era, the growing of exotic plants including A.Elatior went into a swift decline, to be remembered only in a few books written at the time.&lt;br /&gt;During the 1980's, renewed interest in growing palms and other exotics saw A.Elatior making something of a comeback, this time though, as a garden plant not a house plant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;By coincidence, the late 70's and 80's also saw our old chums the botanists renewing their interest in Aspidistra and this has resulted in many more species being found and described.&lt;br /&gt;So, from the original 8 or 10 species, there are now some 50 plus, with it is believed, yet more to be discovered.&lt;br /&gt;Several of these new discoveries, have been introduced into cultivation and some are proving to be hardy when grown in the garden, A.Elatior however, is still the easiest to find and it's the one I concentrate on in this blog.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aspidistra are woodland plants originating in the far east.&lt;br /&gt;China it seems, has the most species, with Japan and Vietnam also being home to some fine plants.&lt;br /&gt;At the moment, I only grow A.Elatior and A.e."Variegata", there's also one I've seen called A.e."Milky Way" and this too should make a good garden plant, but I've yet to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A.Elatior, is famed for its ability to grow in less than perfect situations and it certainly does tolerate neglect.&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, that's all it does, it tolerate's but it doesn't thrive.&lt;br /&gt;With a modicum of care and attention, you can have a plant that thrive's, prospers and is a credit to your plant growing skills.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting Out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although Aspidistra will grow in deep shade, it seems a shame to plant it where it's likely to go unnoticed.&lt;br /&gt;Far more preferable, is to plant it in light to medium shade in a spot where it can be appreciated.&lt;br /&gt;Avoid planting it in the sun, as this can cause bleaching of the leaves, making them look rather tatty.&lt;br /&gt;Neither A.Elatior or A.e."Variegata" are fussy about soil type, but it &lt;i&gt;must&lt;/i&gt; be well drained, dry to moist is preferable, avoid any area with standing water or poor drainage as this is likely to kill your plant. ( As I found to my cost. )&lt;br /&gt;A well cultivated soil is best, dig in plenty of well rotted manure into the planting area and add some fish, blood and bone fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;The best time for planting out, is early Spring when all danger of frost has gone.&lt;br /&gt;Keep the plant well watered until it's established and then you can leave it to its own devices.&lt;br /&gt;Aspidistra, aren't exactly the greyhounds of the plant world and growth tends to be slow.&lt;br /&gt;Supplementary watering and feeding with weak general purpose fertilizer will speed things up a tad and certainly give you a better looking plant, in fact, a plant to be proud of.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Propagation is by division and this is best done in early Spring.&lt;br /&gt;The process is easy, simply lift the plant and carefully divide it into as many pieces as you need.&lt;br /&gt;Try not to cut tiny bits off, make them a reasonable size.&lt;br /&gt;Remove any excess soil and dead roots, dust all cuts with Sulpher powder.&lt;br /&gt;I pot mine up in a mixture of coir, plenty of Perlite and soilless compost and I add some long life fertilizer pellets.&lt;br /&gt;Keep the pots in a shaded spot until plants are established.&lt;br /&gt;Don't get the compost soaking wet, this is the kiss of death for Aspidiatra, just keep them moist and let them dry out a tad between watering. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Comment:&lt;/i&gt;   There are some people who find A.Elatior boring.&lt;br /&gt;What poor misguided souls they are, no taste.&lt;br /&gt;I think, it's one of the best plants for the open garden, being easy to grow and maintain.&lt;br /&gt;Add a dash of T.L.C. and you've got a plant that will be the envy of your friends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-116064812344310175?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/116064812344310175/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=116064812344310175' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/116064812344310175'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/116064812344310175'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/10/aspidistra-elatior-cast-iron-plant.html' title='Aspidistra Elatior. The Cast Iron Plant.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115736330439264932</id><published>2006-09-04T10:47:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:50:07.307+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Arums, Autumn wonders.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics%20020.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Arum Italicum syn Marmoratum" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics%20020.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my garden, the onset of Autumn with its cooler temperatures is a period of transition.&lt;br /&gt;With exotics beginning to wind down ready for the Winter, Autumn bulbs and corms come into growth, bringing some cheer to the impending gloom.&lt;br /&gt;Autumn Crocus, Colchicums ( Naked Ladies ) Sternbergia and of course Cyclamen sp. with their infinite leaf patterns all add interest and colour.&lt;br /&gt;Amongst all this activity, there's also a member of the Aroid family ( two if you count Biarum sp. ) which comes into growth at this time of year, the Arums.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tend to split Arums into two types, those grown for their leaf colour or pattern and those grown for the colour of their spathe.&lt;br /&gt;Of the twenty five or so species the most well known is probably Arum Italicum "Marmoratum" syn "Pictum". ( Pictured with Cyclamen Hederifolium. )&lt;br /&gt;Grown for the beauty of its leaves, this Arum is popular with gardeners and those who are interested in flower arranging, the leaves look good in Winter flower arrangements.&lt;br /&gt;Two other Arums which are popular are A.Creticum and A.Dioscoridis, these two are grown for the colour of their spathe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A.Italicum has one of the widest distributions of all the Arums, growing in Europe, the Mediterranean, East towards the Caucasus, North Africa and a few other places in between.&lt;br /&gt;There are four subspecies, Albispathum, Canariense, Italicum and Neglectum.&lt;br /&gt;There are also several named selections available here, "Bill Baker", "Chameleon", "Ghost" and "Tiny" being four of them.&lt;br /&gt;There are more, but they only seem to be on sale in the U.S.A.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the Italicums are worth growing, ( I'm biased ) but "Marmoratum" is probably the easiest to find, with the subspecies and named selections falling into the realm of the specialist grower/nursery.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A.i. "Marmoratum" is a plant best seen before you buy, as are the named selections.&lt;br /&gt;This is because they can be very variable. The vein colour and leaf pattern on some samples I've seen, has been very insipid, while others have a good strong cream to almost white colour.&lt;br /&gt;So, if its possible to get to a nursery or two, this gives you the opportunity to pick out a good form.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;This is the first of the sunlovers, grown for the colour of their spathe.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;br /&gt;From Crete, the Eastern Mediterranean and Turkey, comes everyones favourite Arum. A.Creticum.&lt;br /&gt;This has been popular ever since it was first brought into cultivation, the Primrose Yellow spathe and sweet perfume making it an instant hit.&lt;br /&gt;Easy to grow and an unashamed sunlover, it will bring a splash of colour to the Spring garden.&lt;br /&gt;You may well come across a form of this with the grand title, A.Creticum (F.C.C.) clone. ( The F.C.C. stands for First Class Certificate. )&lt;br /&gt;Allthough I've never had any frost problems with A.Creticum, if you live in a particularly cold area, this is the one to buy as it's reliably hardy. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;This is the second one.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A.Dioscoridis, is another Arum that's popular with growers.&lt;br /&gt;There are four variations, var.cyprium, var.dioscoridis, var.philistaeum and var.syriacum.&lt;br /&gt;Of these, the plant formerly known as A.Diorscoridis v.spectabile is probably the most popular.&lt;br /&gt;This plant is now called A.Dioscoridis v.dioscoridis.&lt;br /&gt;Confusing innit!&lt;br /&gt;These are all native to the Eastern Mediterannean, Cyprus and the Middle East including Lebanon, Palestine and Syria.&lt;br /&gt;These plants are notable for the maroon, sometimes almost black spots and blotches on the spathe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Planting out&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Of the Arums featured here, the "Italicums" are the most accomodating.&lt;br /&gt;These will grow happily in sun to fairly dark shade, allthough hiding them away seems like a waste to me.&lt;br /&gt;In front of hedges, beneath decidous trees and shrubs and shady rockeries, are all good places for planting out. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A.Creticum and A.Dioscoridis, I always plant these in full sun, allthough they will grow succesfully in light shade.&lt;br /&gt;If you live in a very cold area, try to find a warm, sunny, sheltered spot for them.&lt;br /&gt;Good places are in front of south or west facing walls and fences.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like Ariseamas, I plant Arums deep, at least 6ins. minimum.&lt;br /&gt;Drainage is very important and the bottom of the planting hole should be thoroughly loosened up.&lt;br /&gt;I dig in plenty of well rotted manure and add a handfull of fish, blood and bone fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;I also use the baskets, which I mentioned in the Ariseama blog, this makes lifting the corms and collecting offsets easy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Arums, are best grown in "Long Tom" pots.&lt;br /&gt;I use a mixture of J.I.No2, well rotted manure and Perlite.&lt;br /&gt;Err on the side of to much drainage, Arums will not tolerate waterlogging.&lt;br /&gt;To this, I add some fish, blood and bone fertilizer and some long life fertilizer pellets.&lt;br /&gt;Don't water the plants until you see signs of growth, then water modestly keeping them just damp.&lt;br /&gt;Even when in full growth, don't go mad with the watering as any excess can lead to the corm rotting. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Arums are easily grown from seed or offsets, simply follow the instructions given in my Growing Ariseamas blog.&lt;br /&gt;The only modifications I make, is to add a bit more drainage to the compost and give them a bit more light when in growth. Posted by Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; Arums are generally trouble free plants, but watch out for slugs, as these seem to relish the leaves.&lt;br /&gt;One good tip, is to mist the pots and young growth with Cheshunt Compound, this will help prevent any problems with "Damping Off".&lt;br /&gt;Even better, is don't get the pots too wet in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115736330439264932?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115736330439264932/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115736330439264932' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115736330439264932'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115736330439264932'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/09/growing-arums-autumn-wonders.html' title='Growing Arums, Autumn wonders.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115658692105005486</id><published>2006-08-26T11:07:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:51:25.261+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Chamaedorea Radicalis.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikespics.jpg%20014.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Chamaedorea Radicalis" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikespics.jpg%20014.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chamaedorea Radicalis is one of my "mystery why no one else seems to grow it" palms, the other being C.Microspadix.&lt;br /&gt;Hand on heart, I've only seen this palm get a mention three times anywhere.&lt;br /&gt;Once in the Palm Centre catalogue, from where I bought mine, once on the website of an American enthusiast who was creating a mini forest of them and here on this Blog.&lt;br /&gt;This really puzzles me, because C.Radicalis must rate as the best palm ever for a moist shady spot in the garden.&lt;br /&gt;I might add, that for a few years at least, it also makes a very good house/conservatory palm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Native to Mexico, where it grows as an understory palm in tropical rainforests, C.Radicalis has turned out to be extremely hardy, shrugging of temperatures down to -10c in my garden.&lt;br /&gt;It's also turned out to be one of the easiest palms to look after, requiring little more than a rich, moisture retentive but well drained soil to succeed.&lt;br /&gt;Although it has something of a reputation for slow growth, plenty of fertilizer during the growing season will speed things up a tad.&lt;br /&gt;It's also unusual, in that it will flower when still a young plant but you need male and female plants to get any berries.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I bought my Radicalis, it was some two feet tall, now, at just seven feet it's too big to bring indoors, so it lives outside behind the kitchen against a North facing wall.&lt;br /&gt;This is actually a fairly open position, so it does get a decent amount of light.&lt;br /&gt;It seems to like this spot, because this year it's got a bit excited and put on four new leaves and three flower spikes, normaly it's two leaves and two flower spikes, perhaps I've done something right at last.&lt;br /&gt;There's one thing I've learned about palm growing, or for that matter any plant which I think is important, be prepared to experiment, particularly with regards to siting your plant, you might well be surprised at what a little change can do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Problems&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Despite my glowing rhetoric, C.Radicalis can have a few problems.&lt;br /&gt;Indoors or out, Red Spider Mite raises its ugly head.&lt;br /&gt;Indoors I give it a dose of "Provado", while outdoors a regular, heavy misting with plain water keeps them down.&lt;br /&gt;Wind can also do some damage, fraying the leaf tips and making them look a little unsightly.&lt;br /&gt;Strong sunlight will also cause damage, giving the leaves a bad case of sunburn, early morning or late evening sun is best.&lt;br /&gt;C.Radicalis is the only palm that I protect for the Winter and this is just a throw over of fleece to give the leaves some protection from the wind and a cover for the roots which are growing well above the surface of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Summary&lt;/i&gt; I would recommend C.Radicalis to anyone, without any reservation.&lt;br /&gt;Despite the niggles mentioned above, this really is a beautiful palm, graceful and easy to look after, well worth the effort. Posted by: Mike. &lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;For a more comprehensive explanation of how I plant my palms, see my June blog:&amp;nbsp;&lt;div class="file"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html"target="_blank"&gt;Palms!!! Planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115658692105005486?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115658692105005486/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115658692105005486' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115658692105005486'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115658692105005486'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/growing-chamaedorea-radicalis.html' title='Growing Chamaedorea Radicalis.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115606946240391626</id><published>2006-08-20T11:22:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:51:59.487+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Feature plant.  Arisaema Candidissimum</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics%20016.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Arisaema Candidissimum" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics%20016.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a world where Arisaemas are seen by many as ugly, I've even heard them described as evil looking, Arisaema Candidissimum shines like a beacon in the darkness.&lt;br /&gt;Since its discovery in 1914, it's become one of, if not the, most popular plants of the genus.&lt;br /&gt;Every one who sees it, seems to fall in love with it even if they're not Arisaema fans generally.&lt;br /&gt;When you've seen one in flower it's easy to see why.&lt;br /&gt;You certainly couldn't describe the flower ( spathe ) as brash, but with their almost porcelain like whiteness suffused with pastel pink stripes, they have almost a hypnotic effect on people.&lt;br /&gt;I've only ever heard two words used to describe this plant, beautifull and pretty, which just about says it all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately for us, A.Candidissimum is a versatile plant being both hardy and easy to grow.&lt;br /&gt;Allthough it isn't the only Arisaema that likes plenty of light, it's the only one I know of that will tolerate the hot afternoon sun, even if it does flop a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, I have A.Candidissimum planted out in several areas of my garden.&lt;br /&gt;These range from, deepish shade through to full sun from midday to about 6pm.&lt;br /&gt;In deep shade, they perform poorly, being very economical with flowers and leaves.&lt;br /&gt;In light shade to full sun, they really get into their stride, putting up numerous flowers with leaves up to 14 ins across at their widest point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I should point out, that you might get this one year but not the next.&lt;br /&gt;This is because Arisaemas have quirks, one of which is the ability to adjust its growth to the energy its expended and the prevailing conditions.&lt;br /&gt;So, if growing conditions are good one year, you could get plenty of flowers and a good seed set.&lt;br /&gt;However, the following year, good growing conditions or not, could see few flowers and no seed set at all.&lt;br /&gt;This is the way the plant rebuilds all the energy expended the previous year on flowering and seed setting.&lt;br /&gt;Very neat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, A.Candidissimum, is a superb plant for expert or newcomer alike.&lt;br /&gt;Planted in light shade to full sun and given a good feed and plenty of water when in growth, A.Candidissimum will prove to be one of the best plants for the exotics lover to grow. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115606946240391626?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115606946240391626/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115606946240391626' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115606946240391626'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115606946240391626'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/feature-plant-arisaema-candidissimum.html' title='Feature plant.  Arisaema Candidissimum'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115503723436520438</id><published>2006-08-08T12:10:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:52:38.640+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Arisaemas.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;Arisaemas, are interesting and complex members of the Aroid family.&lt;br /&gt;Usually the preserve of the alpine and woodland plant enthusiast, the renewal of interest in growing exotics, has seen Arisaemas "Come in from the cold" with more people than ever growing them.&lt;br /&gt;In the past twenty years or so, there has also been a flurry of new introductions, bringing even more species to the attention of the exotics enthusiast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although they're distributed widely throught the world, here in the West, we fare poorly, there being just a few noteworthy species.&lt;br /&gt;It is the Far East that provides us with the bulk of the species we grow, including those known as "The Whiplash Arisaemas", with the Himalaya, China, India and of course Japan all being home to many fine plants.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually regarded as woodland plants, given some light or dappled shade and moisture, they'll grow almost anywhere.&lt;br /&gt;I've seen them growing on the shady side of rockeries and I've grown A.Triphyllum and A.Consanguineum in a part shaded scree bed, with A.Candidissimum in a sunnier spot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are some doubts, about the hardiness of some of the plants I mention here, but in my garden they've all proved to be hardy down to -10c.&lt;br /&gt;Deep planting and a heavy precautionary mulch, takes care of the winter.&lt;br /&gt;However, early risers might get nipped by frost.&lt;br /&gt;For gardeners who live further South than Birmingham, I'd expect all these species to be hardy, further North, the opposite and some may well need lifting and storing for the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good species to start with are, A.Amurense, A.Candidissimum, A.Consanguineum, A.Costatum, A.Flavum, A.Triphylum and A.Jacquemontii.&lt;br /&gt;Species which may need protection or lifting include, A.Elephas, A.Engleri, A.Griffithii, A.Speciosum, A.Sikokianum, A.Tortuosum, A.Nepenthoides.&lt;br /&gt;There are many more species available, but I think there's enough here to keep anyone going for a year or two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing Arisaemas in pot's, gives you the opportunity to get a close look at these unusual plants.&lt;br /&gt;It's also the best way of bulking up small corms which have been grown from seed or retrieved from around parent plants.&lt;br /&gt;Deep crock pots are the best to use, with those known as "Long Toms" being ideal.&lt;br /&gt;Always use pots which are large enough to give the corms room to grow.&lt;br /&gt;Flowering size corms, should be planted approximately two thirds of the way down the pot, small corms, about the same or slightly less.&lt;br /&gt;Remember, Arisaemas root from the top.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most people say you should use an acid to neutral compost, but I've always grown them in whatever I've got available at the time.&lt;br /&gt;Commercial orchid compost, as sold by Levingtons and J.Arthur Bower is o.k. but extra bark chips or Perlite should be added to improve the drainage.&lt;br /&gt;Also good is one part coir, one part well rotted manure and one generous part of bark chips or Perlite.&lt;br /&gt;To these mixtures, I also add long life fertilizer and charcoal pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Far more important than which compost you use, is drainage, this must be excellent.&lt;br /&gt;The corms of some species, seem to be more prone to rotting than others and excess water hanging around should be avoided at all costs.&lt;br /&gt;At the risk of repeating myself, always err on the side of too much drainage rather than too little.&lt;br /&gt;I don't use grit or gravel in my Aroid compost's, nor do I rest the corms on the stuff.&lt;br /&gt;Aroids have a relatively soft outer skin and it is easily punctured by sharp edges.&lt;br /&gt;Stick to Perlite or bark chips.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once potted, they should be kept in a cool shaded area.&lt;br /&gt;Don't water the pots when the corms are dormant, wait until you see the growing point emerging through the soil, then give them a very modest amount of water.&lt;br /&gt;As growth continues, move the pots into better light but avoiding strong sunlight. Give more water and start adding fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;For flowering size corms, I use liquid tomato fertilizer, for bulking up small corms, I use liquid high nitrogen fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;I dilute my fertilizer to one third full strength and give them a feed at every watering.&lt;br /&gt;It's beneficial, to keep the plants growing for as long as possible but once the leaves begin to die down, stop watering and feeding immediately.&lt;br /&gt;When corms are fully dormant, return the pots to the cool shaded area again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In the ground&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways of planting out Arisaemas, or for that matter, any bulb or corm.&lt;br /&gt;The method you use, depends on whether you want to retrieve offsets.&lt;br /&gt;If you're not bothered, use method one.&lt;br /&gt;If you want to retrieve offsets, use method two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Method one.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, choose your spot where the corms are to be planted.&lt;br /&gt;Dig a fair sized diameter hole, at least 9 inches deep.&lt;br /&gt;Don't skimp on this it's important.&lt;br /&gt;Really loosen the soil at the bottom, excess water must drain away.&lt;br /&gt;If you want to put anything beneath the corm, use Perlite or bark.&lt;br /&gt;Refill the hole, with a mixture of soil, well rotted manure if available and long life fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;I normally put in a marker stick at this point so I know where the corm is.&lt;br /&gt;If you're planting corms in the shade of say, a palm or tree fern, then do it when they're dormant and try not to do to much damage to their roots.&lt;br /&gt;Even better, plant them at the same time as the shrub, palm, tree fern or whatever.&lt;br /&gt;At this depth, the corms should be o.k. through the winter.&lt;br /&gt;If your a bit unsure though, simply cover with a heavy mulch and that should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Method two.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is the method I've used, for planting bulbs and corms, for well over twenty years.&lt;br /&gt;It makes use of the plastic baskets that you grow pond plants in.&lt;br /&gt;Its one great advantage is, that it makes collecting offsets very easy.&lt;br /&gt;You simply have to dig down to the basket and lift it out, complete with offsets in situ.&lt;br /&gt;The only downside, is that you can't really use it around other plants, as the roots grow through the basket making it difficult to retrieve without causing any damage.&lt;br /&gt;As with method one, dig a deep good sized hole.&lt;br /&gt;Place the basket in the bottom, put the corm in and finish of as method one.&lt;br /&gt;(I usually make a couple of handles, using some strong wire which, when attached to the basket, make lifting it out even easier.)&lt;br /&gt;That's all there is to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;From seed&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing Arisaemas from seed is easy, other than a soak in water for a day or two, they need no special preparation.&lt;br /&gt;It also gives you the opportunity, to grow species which are expensive to buy as corms, or are not easily available commercialy.&lt;br /&gt;The downside of course, is that you have to grow them on to flowering size yourself, between three and five years usually, which probably doesn't appeal much to todays "instant gardener".&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Autumn through to Spring are the best sowing times and all that you need, are your seed, some pots and a well drained mix of your favourite seed or potting compost.&lt;br /&gt;Soak the seed for a day or two, giving them a swish around in fresh water occasionaly.&lt;br /&gt;Fill the pots and plant the seed, I usually put mine in at between a quarter and half an inch deep, depending on the size of the seed.&lt;br /&gt;Place the pots in a tray and fill with water.&lt;br /&gt;When the pots feel heavy, remove them and allow to drain.&lt;br /&gt;Cover the pots with plastic bags or put them in a cold frame, unheated propagator or on shady window sill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Germination is erratic and can take several weeks.&lt;br /&gt;When the first seedlings show, remove the cover and move into better light.&lt;br /&gt;I keep mine in the same pots for two years, which gives the young corms a chance to put on a bit of growth before moving them on.&lt;br /&gt;As the seedlings grow, feed on high nitrogen fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;Don't over water, this can be lethal, the compost should be just moist.&lt;br /&gt;After three years, I switch to liquid tomato fertilizer to encourage the corms to flower.&lt;br /&gt;When they've flowered once in their pots I plant them out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;From corms&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;To grow on from corms, is even easier.&lt;br /&gt;You can leave the corms around the parent plant to build up to a decent size or you can remove them when they're small.&lt;br /&gt;Which ever way you choose, grow them on as outlined above.&lt;br /&gt;You can, actually "force" the corms, so that you cram two years growth into one but this is a bit involved so I'll leave it out.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;i&gt;Summary:&lt;/i&gt; I think that Arisaemas, should be in everyones garden, but then I'm biased.&lt;br /&gt;Given a bit of care and attention, they're very rewarding plants, which from spring to early summer will definitely add that "Jungle Look" to your garden.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115503723436520438?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115503723436520438/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115503723436520438' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115503723436520438'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115503723436520438'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/08/growing-arisaemas.html' title='Growing Arisaemas.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115339764067667967</id><published>2006-07-20T12:59:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:55:03.114+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Cycas Revoluta. The Sago Palm.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics.jpg%20007.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Cycas Revoluta" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics.jpg%20007.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;The history of Cycads stretches back over millions of years, with various aspects of it still the subject of much debate.&lt;br /&gt;Cycad fossil's, have been recovered from from almost every corner of the modern day world and when dated, many have been shown to be between 250 and 280 million years old.&lt;br /&gt;At their Zenith during the Jurassic Period, when they all but dominated the vegetation, various factors combined which saw the beginning of their decline.&lt;br /&gt;Today there are some 250 species left and many, if not the majority of these are threatened with extinction.&lt;br /&gt;I'm not a particularly "Green" kind of bloke, but I think it would be a great tragedy if these magnificent and fascinating plants were to disappear forever.&lt;br /&gt;Let's hope that something can be done to secure their future.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Native to the Ruyukyu Islands of Japan, Cycas Revoluta has been cultivated for centuries, being a much revered plant in its homeland.&lt;br /&gt;From here, it has spread throughout the World and wherever Cycads can be grown you'll find C.Revoluta somewhere, either as a houseplant, landscape plant or even as a subject for Bonsai.&lt;br /&gt;One thing does puzzle me though.&lt;br /&gt;When you consider, the many thousands of plants that are raised each year for the U.K. market alone, where does all the seed come from?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In Pots&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Despite its reputation for being an easy to grow plant, it wasn't until I'd got to grips with the watering, that I had any sort of success and this was usually short lived.&lt;br /&gt;Rotting roots were the main problems, causing me to lose several plants.&lt;br /&gt;Whenever I repotted one, it invariably went into a massive sulk, lasting anything up to a year or two or three.&lt;br /&gt;So, some three years ago, I abandoned growing them in pots in favour of planting them out in the garden.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For those with masochistic tendencies or are members of the "Greenfinger" club I offer these tips, based on my experiences.&lt;br /&gt;C.Revoluta is very sensitive to over watering, particularly in winter.&lt;br /&gt;You must ensure that drainage in your pot is first class, anything less will invariably result in the roots rotting.&lt;br /&gt;Allow the plant to dry out between watering, don't do my trick, "a little bit more wont hurt" it does, keep it on the dry side!&lt;br /&gt;If you do repot your plant, ( you brave soul! ) a good compost can be made up using J.I.No2/3, Coir, well rotted manure and orchid bark chips or Perlite.&lt;br /&gt;I used 1 part each of J.I, Coir and manure mixed with a generous 2 parts orchid bark chips or Perlite and long life fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;I also added charcoal pieces to the mixture as this helps to keep the compost sweet.&lt;br /&gt;This gives a fast draining, aerated mixture which should hold just enough moisture to keep the plant happy. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In the garden.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ive actually tried, to grow C.Revoluta in the garden on several occasions in the past but without much success.&lt;br /&gt;Rotting at the base of the plants and the roots being the cause of their demise.&lt;br /&gt;Three years ago, after abandoning trying to grow them in pots I decided to have one last go at growing them in the garden.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So in Spring 2003 I planted three out in the garden.&lt;br /&gt;(There's one thing I should point out.&lt;br /&gt;When I first tried them out in the garden, I planted part of the stem as well.&lt;br /&gt;Big mistake!&lt;br /&gt;Moisture gets trapped in the old leaf stalks and this, I believe is what caused the base of the plant to rot.&lt;br /&gt;Only plant the roots, leave the stem resting on the surface.)&lt;br /&gt;One, is planted in a shady south facing spot in the front garden.&lt;br /&gt;In 2004 it grew three leaves which have since gone into decline and its done nothing since.&lt;br /&gt;Another one, ( pictured ) I've planted in the back garden.&lt;br /&gt;This one lives in a south west facing raised bed and it's lightly shaded by a Lilac tree and the overhanging fronds of a small T.Fortunii.&lt;br /&gt;Without the shading, it would get full sun from 1pm. until sunset.&lt;br /&gt;I built this bed some eight years ago, it's very fast draining and it dries out quickly.&lt;br /&gt;The final one is also in the back garden.&lt;br /&gt;This one however, is planted in a border, in a north facing spot, some 10ins away from a wall.&lt;br /&gt;This one, only gets the final rays of the sun, from about 5pm. to sunset.&lt;br /&gt;This year, in the middle of June, both these plants began to grow new leaves.&lt;br /&gt;As can be seen from the photo, taken on the 15th July they're not large but at least they're a start.&lt;br /&gt;Am I pleased? You bet I am.&lt;br /&gt;I'm watering and feeding them well and the plants look a picture of health, I just hope they make it through the coming winter o.k. Posted by:Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note&lt;/i&gt; This has been a long Blog and there is a great deal more that I could add, space however is at a premium.&lt;br /&gt;I've kept a lot of notes ocncerning the growing of C.Revoluta, so if I can be of any help, please get in touch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115339764067667967?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115339764067667967/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115339764067667967' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115339764067667967'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115339764067667967'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/growing-cycas-revoluta-sago-palm.html' title='Growing Cycas Revoluta. The Sago Palm.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115296736517152340</id><published>2006-07-15T12:19:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-07T10:55:37.137+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Musa Sikkimensis.The resurgent banana.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics%20014.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics%20014.jpg" border="0" alt="Musa Sikkimensis" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's a moral ( Moral no.1. ) in this blog, which goes something like this.&lt;br /&gt;Don't dig up any plant and discard it until you're absolutely, 100%, sure it's dead!&lt;br /&gt;In my blog "2005 Winter Summary" I noted that M.Sikkimensis looked as though it had passed on to greener pastures.&lt;br /&gt;In fact, I was so convinced of it's demise, that I'd decided to dig it up and dump it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Fate, in the shape of other jobs taking priority took a hand and the seemingly soggy mess was still in the ground in mid Spring.&lt;br /&gt;I should say here, that I mulch the roots heavily to provide Winter protection but I leave the stems unprotected. The soggy mess was all that was left of the stems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;One evening in late May, while taking a stroll round my acres, I noticed a shoot poking it's head through the mulch.&lt;br /&gt;Lo and behold, it was M.Sikkimensis back from the dead!&lt;br /&gt;As the day's past, another couple of shoot's appeared. Oh joy and all that stuff, a miracle no less.&lt;br /&gt;As can be seen from the pic, M.Sikkimensis is now growing away strongly and hopefully will continue to do so for years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's another moral in this story, ( Moral No.2. ) which I'll now tell you.&lt;br /&gt;Originaly, I bought two M.Sikkimensis in the Spring sale from an exotic plant nursery.&lt;br /&gt;I planted one out in the garden and grew the other one on in a pot.&lt;br /&gt;As the Winter drew ever closer, I wondered what to do with regards to giving the Musa I'd planted out some Winter protection.&lt;br /&gt;As it happened, I came across the website of someone who's an expert in these things.&lt;br /&gt;He recommended putting wire mesh around the stems, filling it with straw and putting a cap on top to keep out excess rain.&lt;br /&gt;So, that's what I did.&lt;br /&gt;Come the following Spring, I removed the straw and mesh expecting to find my Musa in fine fettle and raring to grow.&lt;br /&gt;No such luck!&lt;br /&gt;All that was left was a smelly mess of soggy brown gunge and this included the root system.&lt;br /&gt;An e.mail to the expert, asking him where he thought I might have gone wrong, bought the reply and I quote "Sorry I don't know, I've lost one of my plants that way as well".&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The moral is, "Beware of Experts" keep an open mind, use your own judgment, try to experiment and remember, what works in someone elses garden might not work in yours.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, M.Sikkimensis is an excellent plant needing only sun, a rich soil, lots of water and fertilizer to keep it happy.&lt;br /&gt;Wind can be a problem, causing the the leaves to split but I've never had any problems with pests on it.&lt;br /&gt;A very nice plant and root hardy down to minus 10c.   Posted by: Mike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115296736517152340?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115296736517152340/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115296736517152340' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115296736517152340'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115296736517152340'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/musa-sikkimensisthe-resurgent-banana.html' title='Musa Sikkimensis.The resurgent banana.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115278878021991962</id><published>2006-07-13T11:10:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2006-12-13T11:57:24.362+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Chamaedorea Microspadix, the hardy bamboo palm.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics2%20013.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Chamaedorea Microspadix" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics2%20013.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are some palms, which I describe as "mystery" palms.&lt;br /&gt;The reason for this, is because it's a mystery to me why no one here in the U.K. seems to grow them.&lt;br /&gt;Although I've looked at various forums and the odd personal website, I've never seen C. Microspadix mentioned anywhere.&lt;br /&gt;Whether people are growing it and keeping quiet about it for some reason I don't know. Perhaps they prefer the more "Glamorous" palms&lt;br /&gt;One thing is certain though, if you're not growing it, you're missing out on a great palm.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;C.Microspadix, hails from forested areas of central Mexico and has turned out to be one of the hardiest palms that I grow.&lt;br /&gt;When I bought my plant, it was a tiny little thing and for a couple of years I grew it as a houseplant.&lt;br /&gt;Although it looked good grown in a pot, I found that I was fighting a losing battle against Red Spider Mite.&lt;br /&gt;More in desperation than hope, I decided to take the plunge and plant it out.&lt;br /&gt;So, some four years ago, I planted it out in a shady spot in the garden.&lt;br /&gt;Although it still suffers from the occasional attack by the dreaded Mite it's turned out to be a really good garden palm.&lt;br /&gt;A worthy addition to any collection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing C.Microspadix is easy, it does best in rich well drained soil in light to medium shade.&lt;br /&gt;For planting in the garden, use your favourite method or see my blog titled "Planting Out Your Treasures".&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Growing in pots:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;When grown in a pot, pay particular attention to the drainage, err on the side of too much rather than too little.&lt;br /&gt;If you're using a plastic pot, add more drainage material.&lt;br /&gt;C.Microspadix doesn't seem to be fussy about compost, so as long as it's well drained you can use anything really.&lt;br /&gt;I made one up using 1 part J.I.no2, 1 part soilless, 1 part coir and 2 parts small bark chips, plus long life fertilizer.&lt;br /&gt;Whether, planted out, or grown in a pot, keep it well watered and fertilized during growth.&lt;br /&gt;Keep the pot just moist in winter. &lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Summary:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;C.Microspadix is one of those palms which look good in a pot or in the garden.&lt;br /&gt;Provided you keep your eye open for Spider Mite, which seems to be its greatest enemy, you should have little trouble with it.&lt;br /&gt;All in all, a great palm. Posted by:Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;For a more comprehensive explanation of how I plant my palms, see my June blog:&amp;nbsp;&lt;div class="file"&gt; &lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html"target="_blank"&gt;Palms!!! Planting out your treasures.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div align="right" class="top"&gt;&lt;a href="#top"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;nbsp;Top of page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115278878021991962?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115278878021991962/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115278878021991962' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115278878021991962'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115278878021991962'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/growing-chamaedorea-microspadix-hardy.html' title='Growing Chamaedorea Microspadix, the hardy bamboo palm.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115253272567605679</id><published>2006-07-10T11:19:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:51:19.308+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Agaves. Propagating from offsets/runners.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/agaves%20011.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Agave offsets" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/agaves%20011.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allthough Agave species are easy to grow from seed, problems arise when you want to propagate the variegated forms. These must be propagated from offsets or runners.&lt;br /&gt;One of the most popular, is A.Americana Variegata, which in common with other forms of A.Americana usually puts out plenty of offsets.&lt;br /&gt;Starting with the equipment needed, here's how to propagate them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Equipment:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need a very sharp knife, scalpel or a pair of secateurs.&lt;br /&gt;Some fungicide such as sulpher dust and of course pots, compost and gravel.&lt;br /&gt;I also use surgical spirit to sterilize the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;Cleanliness is most important to prevent infections.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Method:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the area where you're working is clean and knock the plant out of the pot.&lt;br /&gt;Carefully clean away as much of the soil as possible, to expose the roots.&lt;br /&gt;If your plant has been in the pot for sometime, you may well find three types of offset. ( See photo. )&lt;br /&gt;The oldest offsets, will usually  have a complete root system of their own.&lt;br /&gt;These are easy to tease out and remove from the parent plant.&lt;br /&gt;The next type, are those with a partial root system and are still connected to the main plant.&lt;br /&gt;These offsets should be carefully cut away, with as much root as possible and the cuts dusted with fungicide.&lt;br /&gt;The final type ( the youngest ) usually have few, if any roots and should be treated as cuttings.&lt;br /&gt;Dust all cuts with fungicide and place them in a tray.&lt;br /&gt;Leave the tray in a warm, shady spot for a day or so to allow the cuts to callous over.&lt;br /&gt;Replant the parent plant in very well drained compost and leave in a shady spot for a few days.&lt;br /&gt;I don't water the offsets or the parent plant for a few days and when I do I only just moisten the soil.&lt;br /&gt;When the cuts on the offsets have calloused over, I repot them into a very well drained mix of J.I. seed or No1 compost.&lt;br /&gt;When repotting the offsets, use the smallest pots you can, you don't need acres of soggy soil around them.&lt;br /&gt;If you repot into plastic pots, add extra drainage to be on the safe side.&lt;br /&gt;You can also use soilless compost but watch the moisture level, &lt;i&gt;Moist not Wet&lt;/i&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I leave them in a light airy spot while the new roots are growing and I watch the watering!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Summary:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Propagating from offsets is easy as long as you remember to keep things clean and use a bit of care.&lt;br /&gt;Don't allow your plant to become too overgrown in its pot before you do this, once you see three or four offsets growing take them off, it makes life a lot easier.&lt;br /&gt;If your plant grows in the ground, the procedure is just the same.&lt;br /&gt;If the plant has its own root system. lift it as normal, with a good rootball if possible.&lt;br /&gt;If it's still connected to the main plant, proceed as above. Posted by : Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt; Try to water your plant, a few hours, or even better the night before you propagate from it.&lt;br /&gt;Try to take the offsets in the morning, before the heat of the day makes itself felt.&lt;br /&gt;Just doing both these, will help to limit moisture loss.&lt;br /&gt;Remember, your offsets have to form new roots before they can take up moisture and nutrients and until they do, they have to exist on their own reserve's.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115253272567605679?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115253272567605679/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115253272567605679' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115253272567605679'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115253272567605679'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/agaves-propagating-from-offsetsrunners.html' title='Agaves. Propagating from offsets/runners.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115227175114345416</id><published>2006-07-07T12:06:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:50:34.272+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Aloe Striatula. Another "Gem" plant.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics2.jpg%20009.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics2.jpg%20009.jpg" border="0" alt="Aloe Striatula" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aloes, have been grown as house plant's for years, with A.Vera the "Medicinal Aloe" probably being the most well known.&lt;br /&gt;Usually regarded as half hardy or tender plants, here's one which breaks all the rules. Meet Aloe Striatula.&lt;br /&gt;A native of South Africa, given the right conditions, A.Striatula will brush off anything our winters can throw at it and come up smiling in the spring.&lt;br /&gt;So, if you've a passion for Mediterranean plants or just fancy something different give A.Striatula a try, you'll not be disappointed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing A. Striatula is easy, its main requirements are, lots of sun and very well drained soil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In the garden:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;A.Striatula is best planted in a south facing position, give it as much sun as you can. Drainage should be first class, with no possibility of standing water. This is critical in winter. ( Mine grows in a south facing gravel bed with no winter protection. ) It's best planted out after all danger of frost has gone.&lt;br /&gt;Water well during summer to get it established, then ease off for the autumn and winter.&lt;br /&gt;Once established, A.Striatula is as drought resistant as they come and needs very little in the way of maintenance. I give my plant a few dose's of tomato fertilizer during the summer and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;In pots:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;A Striatula also looks good in pots but beware, it tends to grow up and out like a shrub so, when large it all gets a bit heavy and awkward.&lt;br /&gt;There's no need for any fancy composts, a one to one or even one to two mix of JI.no 2 or 3 and gravel will suffice. Whatever compost you use, err on the side of fast drainage and top off the pot with a good gravel mulch. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'll be doing a blog on growing xeric plants from seed in the near future and this will include Aloes.&lt;br /&gt;It's possible to grow A.Striatula from cuttings but great care is needed as any excess moisture will cause them to rot.&lt;br /&gt;I used some new side shoots, about an inch and a half long for propagation, cutting them off close to the main stem.&lt;br /&gt;I dusted them with sulpher powder and left them out for a couple of days to callous over.&lt;br /&gt;I potted them up in a mix of J.I. seed compost and gravel, keeping them just moist.&lt;br /&gt;After about six weeks, three cuttings had rooted and one rotted off.&lt;br /&gt;If you're going to try propagating from cuttings, you must avoid excess humidity as it will kill your plants quicker than anything. Posted by: Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Summary:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A.Striatula really is a superb plant for the exotic garden. I've had little trouble with pests, other than ants which feed on the nectar rich flowers with relish. On occasions blackfly will feed on the flower stems and the odd slug has a nibble but nothing to get excited about.&lt;br /&gt;Frost usually nips the leaf tips, turning them a tad brown, but as the plant starts back into growth this seems to disappear. All in all, a great plant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115227175114345416?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115227175114345416/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115227175114345416' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115227175114345416'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115227175114345416'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/07/aloe-striatula-another-gem-plant.html' title='Aloe Striatula. Another &quot;Gem&quot; plant.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-115019612928331753</id><published>2006-06-13T11:53:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:49:32.943+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Feature Plant. Dracunculus Vulgaris. The Dragon Arum</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/mikesexotics%20001.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Dracunculas Vulgaris" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/mikesexotics%20001.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are some plants, which fall into the "Love 'em or Hate 'em" catagory, here is just such a plant. Friends, meet Dracunculus Vulgaris, the "Dragon Arum". Most gardeners would probably see this as a novelty plant, something unusual to show their friends. For Aroid lovers like me however, it's really something special, in more ways than one. It is native to the Mediterranean, growing in Crete, Greece and Southern Turkey amongst other places. Its most notable features are its size, they grow to 5ft. and when in flower, the smell. This can last from 24 to 48 hours depending on how long it takes for flies to pollinate it and it's yuk! It reminds me of rotting flesh. Don't let this put you off because its well worth growing for the foliage alone and you can always cut off the spathe before it opens. The picture shows the spathe on one of my plants, it measured 18 ins. in length the day before it opened.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Cultivation is easy. A well drained spot in full sun or very light shade is best. Dig out an area of soil about 6 to 9 inches deep. Fork over the bottom of the hole to loosen the soil up. Other than some bonemeal, I don't put anything beneath the corm. Place the corm in the bottom of the hole and replace the soil. Other than adding more bonemeal and a dash of well rotted manure to the topsoil I don't do anything else. Water and fertilize well when in growth, but otherwise leave it alone. As noted above, these can grow tall, so they might need staking in windy conditions. In my garden, they tend to show themselves around about the end of March and once the weather warms up a bit they're off. Other than flies on the spathe doing their stuff, I've never seen any pests on my plants and slugs seem to give them a wide berth. Can't say I blame 'em. One final point, good drainage is most important as any standing water will cause them to rot. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Propagation is from seed or offsets&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;For offsets:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I lift the corms when the plant has died down completely. Allthough offsets can be grown on in deep pots, using a well drained mix of J.I. no 2 and gravel, I prefer to plant them out in the garden. I dig out a small area about 6 ins. deep, loosen the soil in the bottom and place the corms about 4 ins. apart. I replace the top soil and leave them alone. Put in a marker so you remember where they are. When the first growth appears I begin watering and I give heavy feeds of high nitrogen fertilizer to bulk up the corms. After a couple or three years I switch to a high potash fertilizer to harden the corms up a bit and promote flowering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;From Seeds:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Fresh seeds should be planted immediately, in a well drained mix of J.I. seed or no1 compost. Seed that's been stored, should be soaked for a couple of days, then potted up as for fresh seed. The best place to keep them is in a shaded coldframe until they germinate. Seeds and offsets grown in pots can be fed high nitrogen fertilizer to bring the corms up to flowering size. Roughly 3 yr's plus for seeds and 1 or 2 for offsets. Posted by Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-115019612928331753?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/115019612928331753/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=115019612928331753' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115019612928331753'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/115019612928331753'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/feature-plant-dracunculus-vulgaris.html' title='Feature Plant. Dracunculus Vulgaris. The Dragon Arum'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-114976796519413014</id><published>2006-06-08T10:30:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-16T10:12:11.456+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Palms!!!  Planting out your Treasures.</title><content type='html'>&lt;p&gt;This Blog, subtitled "All, or nearly all you need to know about planting out your Treasures." is for those who are new to palm growing. It's all text I'm afraid, no pretty pictures. In it, I've tried to cover most aspects of planting out your palm, from getting it home in one piece to the initial after care. To start with though here are a few common sense do's and dont's. ( At this point, you're allowed to pour yourself 4 fingers of your favourite tipple. Mine's a single malt please. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before I go any further, I should make it clear that this Blog is about planting palms of a manageable size. The sort you'd bring home in your car or small van. Say up to a 10 inch tub. I'm not on about palms which need the use of block and tackle, mobile cranes or a "Chinook" helicopter to airlift them in. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;First the "dont's". Don't go to the garden centre or nursery, buy a palm, bung it in the back of your car and then decide to go for a day out. Why not? How would you feel if you were cooped up for hours in a tin box, which gets boiling hot in the sun and has little ventilation? I'll bet you wouldn't be very happy and neither will your palm. Buy your palm on the way home or make a special journey. If your palm has been kept in the shade, don't dash out and put it out in full sun. Even sun loving palm's can get sunburnt leaves, move it into stronger light gradually. ( Leave shade lover's in the shade. ) Don't be in too much of a hurry to plant your palm. If you've got a particular spot lined up for it, put it out in the tub and leave it there for a day or two. Let it acclimatize itself to its new surroundings, you never know you might decide that it would look better in another part of your garden. ( Keep in mind its basic requirements, some like sun, others like shade and some don't mind either way. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now for some "do's". Buy your palm and plant it out in late spring or early summer. This gives it plenty of time to form new roots and get at least part way to being established before the onset of winter. Palms bought after midsummer are best over wintered in their pot's in a sheltered spot outdoors to plant out the following spring. When you get home, give your palm a good drink of water, either with a watering can or put it in a bucket and fill it up. I've seen too many palms which look well watered but they're not. The top's been moist but the bottom of the pot has been bone dry. Also remember that palm root's invariably take up most if not all of the pot, give 'em a good soak. Do make sure that your garden soil is in good order, add plenty of well rotted compost or manure. Make sure the drainage is in good order, palms don't like wet feet. If your palm needs staking, make sure you've got one or two available. Soil preparation and drainage should have been sorted out prior to planting, not when you're just about to start digging the hole. ( The best time for soil preparation is autumn. This allows the soil to settle a bit and for the winter weather to break it down into a nice tilth. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now for the planting. ( You can all gather round and watch, but bring your own shovel to lean on. ) Over the years, I've seen any number off uprooted trees and palms and the one thing they have in common is the way their roots grow. By far the majority of roots grow on or very close to the soil surface. I'll call these "feeders". These then taper down to the roots which provide the anchorage. If you can visualize an inverted triangle as representing the root growth, with the bulk of them towards the top and gradually tapering down you've got it right. The "feeder" roots will also travel far and wide in their search for moisture and nourishment. My way of planting tries to provide the best possible way for the roots to spread out and down quickly and establish themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume I've got a palm in an 8 inch pot and I'm about to plant it out. How do I go about it? First, I dig out an &lt;i&gt;AREA&lt;/i&gt; between 2 to 4 ft. square and &lt;i&gt;ONLY&lt;/i&gt; as deep as the pot. The soil in the bottom of the hole is then thoroughly loosened with a garden fork. I don't put any manure in the bottom of the hole I leave it for backfilling. ( If your palm needs staking, now's the time to put them in. ) I knock the palm out of the pot, tease out some roots and place it in position, with the top of the pot level with the top of the hole. I then start to refill the hole with a mixture of soil and well rotted manure, firming it down gently as I go. You can also use bark chips, but not composted bark, this stuff takes too much nitrogen from the soil. When I've finished the planting, I give the area a thorough drenching. I use the excess soil and manure as a mulch, covering the planting area. ( Don't mulch right up to the trunk, leave a gap. ) I don't use high nitrogen fertilizer for the first year, I want root growth not top growth. Instead I use a good general purpose fertilizer at one third full strength, I keep it well watered at all times and I never let it dry out. That, is how I plant my palm's. The whole idea, is to provide the roots with a loose, friable, airy soil which holds moisture without getting water logged and which will enable them to establish themselves quickly and get the palm back into full growth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'll be the first to admit that planting out palms this way is time consuming and that it might not appeal to everyone. However, I do believe that it's as close as I'm ever likely to get to the ideal and I can assure you it's worth the time and trouble. Posted by Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note.&lt;/i&gt; If you're going to try out this method and need any advice send an e.mail to bhutia2006@hotmail.co.uk &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-114976796519413014?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/114976796519413014/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=114976796519413014' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114976796519413014'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114976796519413014'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html' title='Palms!!!  Planting out your Treasures.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-114898196973156865</id><published>2006-05-30T10:37:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:46:53.204+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Growing Trachycarpus Latisectus.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/P1210026.0.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/P1210026.0.jpg" border="0" alt="Trachycarpus Latisectus" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allthough the list of Palms which are hardy or nearly so seems to lengthen year by year, most people seem to start of with one of the "Old Faithfulls", usually T.Fortunei. As nice as this palm is, it's easy to grow and suffers little from pests, it does have one great failing. Wind! In anything more than a modest breeze, the leaves can  end up being almost shredded to bits and come the spring it looks like a bomb has hit it. This of course can be very off putting to someone who doesn't know too much about palms.  There are however, other Trachy's which are more resilient to the attentions of  the umbrella basher.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of course is T.Wagnerianus, a bomb proof palm if ever there was one, here's another one T. Latisectus, the Windamere Palm.&lt;br /&gt;T.Latisectus used to be known as T.Sikkimensis, which makes sense because it comes from the Sikkim Himalayas. In their wisdom, the experts have decided to rename it Latisectus. One day I might find out why they do these things. ( Plant experts and botanists, who change the names of whole family's of plants, always remind me of the pop star known as "Prince" or more correctly "Formerly known as Prince" who is probably now "Joe Bloggs". I'm sure when they get up in the morning, they're on the phone to their mates saying something like "I've a good idea, lets call a daisy an orchid and confuse everyone". ) Anyway back to T.Latisectus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are only two areas in my garden which can reasonably be described as nearly wind free, the north east corner and the south west corner. T.Latisectus lives in the n.east bit. Compared to a T.Fortunei which grows a few yards away it's  larger in all its parts. The leaves are longer and broader and form almost a complete circle. Adverse weather seems to have little effect on it and there's  hardly any  wind damage to the leaves. I've never found any pests on it, even the vine weevils which infest some areas of my garden leave it well alone. ( I told em one night "Touch my Lati and I'll av ya!" )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've noticed, is that after being planted out it does seem to be a bit slow getting back into growth mode. Have a bit of patience though because once it gets started  there's no stopping it. For anyone who grows palms, be they newcomer or expert I'd recommend T.Latisectus. It looks good, nay great, it's easy to grow, pests seem to leave it alone and if you worry about growth rates ( I don't, too old ) once it gets going, hang on to your hat. Well, nearlyanyway.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Posted by:&amp;nbsp;Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Note:&lt;/i&gt;&amp;nbsp;For a more comprehensive explanation of how I plant my palms, go to my June blog: &lt;div class="file"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/06/palms-planting-out-your-treasures.html"target="_blank"&gt;Palms!!! Planting out your treasures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-114898196973156865?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/114898196973156865/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=114898196973156865' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114898196973156865'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114898196973156865'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/growing-trachycarpus-latisectus.html' title='Growing Trachycarpus Latisectus.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-114803376830644549</id><published>2006-05-19T11:14:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:45:12.253+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Puya Alpestris A "Gem" Plant.</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/Puya%20Alpestris.2.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Puya Alpestris" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/Puya%20Alpestris.1.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;One of the most satisfying aspects of growing exotics, is when one of your plants exceeds your expectations and comes through the winter successfully&lt;br /&gt;I have several plants, which according to the information I've managed to find out about them should have gone to that Great Garden in the Sky a long time ago, but come the spring they're still with me and looking good. These are my "Gem Plants" and Puya Alpestris is one of them.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that strikes you about this plant is its resemblance to a giant Pineapple top. Which is not surprising as it's a member of the same family. The second thing, if you're not carefull, will be to make the acquaintance of the spine's that run along the leaf edge's. These are shaped like sharks teeth and are vicious looking things. ( And they're sharp! I know.) Don't let this put you off, because it's a plant well worth growing, just keep it away from kids and dogs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;P.Alpestris grows at high altitudes in the Chilean Andes and it will grow in full sun ( recommended ) or light shade. Fast drainage is a must as its water requirements are low and any excess water around the roots could cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt; Although it can be grown in a pot, in fact that's how I grew it for the first year, it isn't something I'd recommend. This is a bulky plant and tends to blow over easily, you also have the problem of handling it and this can be nerve racking. However, if you want to try it, use a one to one mix of J.I.No2 and gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt; I've had my plant for five years now and it's been planted out for four of them. It grows in a small gravel bed in a south facing position where I used to grow some choice Alpines. Apart from bringing it indoors the first winter, I've never given it any winter protection and apart from the odd pale spot which sometimes appears on the leaves I've had no problems with it at all. Even the bugs, slugs and other "Pain in the Bums" leave it alone. In the spring and midsummer I give it a couple of doses of half strength tomato fertilizer and sequestered trace elements and that's it. I leave the rest to the Gardening Gods and Nature. All in all, a great plant.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; Posted by:&amp;nbsp;Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Footnote.&lt;/i&gt; Although there are several varieties of Puya available to the enthusiast, I've only seen P.Alpestris for sale at Trevena Cross Nurseries. So if you want to give it a try, go to the link's column and click on www.trevenacross.co.uk. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-114803376830644549?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/114803376830644549/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=114803376830644549' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114803376830644549'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114803376830644549'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/puya-alpestris-gem-plant.html' title='Puya Alpestris A &quot;Gem&quot; Plant.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-114803163845568762</id><published>2006-05-19T10:38:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:42:06.457+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Feature Plant. Zantedeschia Aethiopica "Green Goddess"</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/1600/P2030032-2jpeg.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Zantedeschia Green Goddess" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1543/2708/200/P2030032-2jpeg.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;From mountain and valley, veldt and fynbos. Over the years, South Africa has given the gardening world a host of fine plants. Many of these fall into the half hardy or tender category, here's one that doesn't. At least not for me!&lt;br /&gt;Zantedescha Aethiopica "Green Goddess" is one of my favourite plants, adding a touch of colour that gives a lift to the "Jungle" type garden but without overpowering it. The splash of white on the green spathe lifts it out of the ordinary and to see a plant with a dozen stems in flower is a sight to behold. There are several cultivars available and I've recently bought one called "Kiwi Blush" which I'm looking forward to seeing in flower.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Cultivation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Growing in sun or shade Z.Aethiopica is a versatile plant. It can be grown as a marginal plant, a border plant and potted up it makes a very good house or conservatory plant. As a marginal, it's best grown in a basket in aquatic soil. This can then be placed in your pond anything up to 12 inches deep. If you live in a very cold area, or your pond is shallow it's best if you lift it in the autumn, pot it up and grow it on as a houseplant.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;For use as a garden plant you need a rich soil. Mix in plenty of well rotted compost or manure, give it plenty of water and lots of low nitrogen fertilizer.  Avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers or you'll end up with a lot of leaf growth at the expense of the flowers. I use tomato or rose fertilizer. A good mulch of well rotted manure can be used to give winter protection. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt; To grow in a pot I use a mix of J.I.No3, well rotted manure, gravel and long life fertilizer pellets. I also give it a few doses of tomato fertilizer to help things along. If you're wandering why I mix in the gravel when the plant likes a lot of moisture it's because root's need air and gravel helps provide the air spaces. This also lessens the chance of root and tuber rot developing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="subhead"&gt;Propagation&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt; &lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Propagating from divisions:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z.Aethiopica is a tuberous rhizome and dividing it into sections provides us with the easiest and quickest way of propagating more plants. This is the method I use. Your plant needs to be dormant by the way. I lift the plant in the spring, usually the end of March. All the soil is washed off leaving a good clean tuber. I look for any damage or signs of rot. Any part of the tuber that is suffering from rot is cut away and binned, treat all cut surfaces with sulpher or Cheshunt Compound. I then place the tuber in a tray of barely moist peat or compost. It doesn't need any great heat, about 60f. will get things moving. After a few weeks, you should see new growth buds emerging. The next step is to divide the rhizome into sections. Use a sharp knife or scalpel and make the cut's clean. Make sure all the division's have at least one growth bud. Dust all cut's with sulpher or Cheshunt Compound. I usually leave the divisions in a warm spot overnight to allow any excess moisture to evaporate. Pot up in a very well drained, moist compost mix. I always stand my pots in a tray and water them from below, after a few minutes I remove the pot's and let them drain off. Placed in a warm area you should soon see new growth coming up. Whatever you do &lt;i&gt;don't&lt;/i&gt; over water them. Keep the division's on the dry side until you see a decent amount of growth. Only then should you start to water more freely. If divided early enough, they should flower in the same year.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="sechead"&gt;Growing from seed:&lt;/div&gt;&lt;p&gt;Zantedeschia species and the cultivar "Green Goddess" can all be grown from seed. I use a compost mix of one to one Perlite and soilless compost. If the seeds are fresh they can be planted immediately, I put one in a three inch pot with a topping of Vermiculite. Older seeds, I soak in water for a couple of days, giving them a swill in running water after 24hrs and another one prior to potting them up. This rehydrates the seed should help wash out any chemical inhibitors. The seeds are then potted up. I don't have a propagator so I put them in a warm room and let nature take its course. Here again, don't go mad with the water, just moist is fine. You can use a &lt;i&gt;weak &lt;/i&gt;mixture of high nitrogen fertilizer to speed up the growth of the tuber. After a couple of years, your tuber should be close to flowering size. Stop using the nitrogen fertilizer and switch to one with a high potash content. This is the one which will give the flowers and the feeling of satisfaction you'll get when you see it in bloom.  You'll find it takes about three to four years from seed to flowering so you'll need to be patient. All in all a lovely plant, which apart from the odd suicidal slug is trouble free.  &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;Posted by:&amp;nbsp;Mike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-114803163845568762?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/114803163845568762/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=114803163845568762' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114803163845568762'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114803163845568762'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/feature-plant-zantedeschia-aethiopica.html' title='Feature Plant. Zantedeschia Aethiopica &quot;Green Goddess&quot;'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-114787711738598207</id><published>2006-05-17T15:13:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:41:20.731+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Start of the exotics year and blogs to come.</title><content type='html'>Depending on the weather, the weeks from mid April on mark the end of the early spring bulbs and the first signs of new growth in the exotics. Now, in mid May there are leaves opening on the Palms and new shoots coming through on Hedychiums and Cannas. Dicksonia Antarctica is also getting in on the act, with the new fronds slowly unfurling. Lets hope we have a good growing year. &lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Over the coming year I will be publishing blogs about growing exotic plants and some which look exotic but are hardy. This will include those that I'm growing now, those that I've tried to grow and some I've given up on. I'll be covering cultivation, propagation and after care. Where possible I'll include photos in glorious colour. ( Thanks to my all singing, all dancing NEW digital camera. Now! How do I open this box? )&lt;br /&gt;Comments, criticism and suggestions are welcome ( Nothing rude or painfull please ).&lt;br /&gt;If you'd like to contribute a blog, e. mail it to me and I'll put it on the site. My e. mail address is: &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; bhutia2006@hotmail.co.uk &lt;br /&gt;Good Growing. Posted by: Mike.&lt;div class="top" align="right"&gt;&lt;a href="http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/12/sitemap.html"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; Back to Site Map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-114787711738598207?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/114787711738598207/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=114787711738598207' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114787711738598207'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114787711738598207'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/start-of-exotics-year-and-blogs-to.html' title='Start of the exotics year and blogs to come.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25864004.post-114760188867987994</id><published>2006-05-14T10:22:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2007-08-08T10:40:08.317+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Winter 2005/6 A Summary.</title><content type='html'>With Winter 2005/6 now a memory, its legacy, at least in my garden lingers on.&lt;br /&gt;The lack of heavy Autumn/Winter rain has left the garden looking very dry and for the first time ever I've abandoned giving it the usual Spring mulch.&lt;br /&gt;What little rain that has fallen since simply evaporates at the first hint of sunshine.&lt;br /&gt;I also recorded the lowest temperatures for four years, down to -10c. This froze everything including me to the core.&lt;br /&gt;Along with this we had the usual bitterly cold north and easterly wind's and several day's of "Pea Souper" freezing fog.&lt;br /&gt;All we needed was a good snow storm and we would have been back to the winters of old.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately I also had some plant casualties.&lt;br /&gt;Three small Phoenix Canariensis, Chamaerops Humilis v Cerifera and a Trachycarpus Nanus have all gone. These were in pots and I'd stored them in a temporary shelter which I put up every year. This isn't frostproof it just keeps excess rain off.&lt;br /&gt;Also doubtful is a Musa Sikkimensis which I planted out three years ago.&lt;br /&gt;A couple of Agave Americana, one green and one blue have also suffered a bit but the growing point and stem are o.k. so they should pull through. &lt;hr align="center" width="30%" color="#854513" size="1"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Reading this you might think its all doom and gloom. Fear not, there are plenty of good bits!&lt;br /&gt;Trachycarpus Latisectus, T.Fortunei and C.Humilis which are planted out are all o.k. allthough the leaves on T.Fortunei took something of a clobbering. ( Nothing new there.)&lt;br /&gt;I have two T.Wagnerianus growing in large decorative pots which have also come through unscathed. Chamaedorea radicalis is the only palm I give any protection to and that is just a wrap around of fleece to protect it from wind damage, the rest have to sink or swim.&lt;br /&gt;Finaly, Butia Yatay and Brahea Armata, both in pots and overwintered under the shelter have come through as well. Posted by: Mike.&lt;div align="right" class="top"&gt;&lt;a href="#top"&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;nbsp;Top of page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;hr align="center" width="75%" color="#8b4513" size="1"&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25864004-114760188867987994?l=bhutia2006.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/feeds/114760188867987994/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=25864004&amp;postID=114760188867987994' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114760188867987994'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/25864004/posts/default/114760188867987994'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://bhutia2006.blogspot.com/2006/05/winter-20056-summary_14.html' title='Winter 2005/6 A Summary.'/><author><name>mike</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>
